This meatless piccata is "a very real hit"I'm back from my trip to Turkey and Kurdistan, where, you won't be surprised to hear, I ate spectacularly well. I was treated to ripe figs and juicy melon; yogurt-swirled dips scooped up with homemade flatbread; singed grilled fish brushed with pomegranate molasses; meaty kebabs cut from every part of the cow and lamb; and so many honeyed, flaky pastries that I think I might have to go on a baklava break, at least for a day or two. Such abundance in all things — except for vegetables. There was parsley in the tabbouleh, and a garnish of tomatoes, onions and chiles with the kebabs, sure, but my recommended daily veggie intake fell deep in debt. I've been making up for it since I got back, with Hetty "Greens New Deal" Lui McKinnon virtually at my side. Hetty, queen of vegetable-centric recipes, is always throwing in at least one smart twist that really makes her dishes shine. In her cauliflower piccata, she roasts the florets until they caramelize, turning nutty and intensely flavored so they can hold their own in a lemony, buttery sauce studded with capers and bits of shallot. Many piccata dishes are spooned over pasta, but Hetty doubles down and suggests instead using more vegetables, such as blistered green beans, for a verdant contrast. Featured Recipe Cauliflower PiccataYou'll find even more color and more produce in Ham El-Waylly's vegetable tortilla soup. With a broth dyed fuchsia from caramelized red cabbage, it's got chipotle chiles for smoky depth and pinto beans for protein and heft. Or go speedy with Zainab Shah's 30-minute broccoli korma, which earns its richness and gentle sweetness from a mix of coconut milk and almond butter that's hit with a generous amount of coarsely ground black pepper for a lingering heat. Ali Slagle's salmon Niçoise with orzo is nearly as quick, and you only need one pot to make it. The velvety salmon, juicy tomatoes and rice-shaped pasta get a tangy lift from a mustard vinaigrette poured over the top at the last minute, and a sprinkling of olives lend a saline bite. Niçoise purists can feel free to substitute a can of tuna for the salmon, which makes this thrifty and very, very easy. Rosh Hashana, the Jewish New Year, begins tonight, and if you're looking for a festive, last-minute main course, may I suggest Carolina Gelen's Marsala chicken meatballs? Eating sweet foods is a traditional way to bring in a joyful new year, and the Marsala wine adds just the right syrupy note to the savory meatballs, while mushrooms ground the dish with an earthy perfume. Honey cake is the classic Rosh Hashana dessert, but let's be honest, there are a lot of heavy, cloying ones out there that have tarnished its reputation. My red wine honey cake aims to clear the dish's name by tempering the honey with tannic wine and rounding out the batter with warm spices and fresh ginger. It comes together easily with a whisk and bakes up light and tender, ready to serve with some fresh plums or berries as you toast a happy, healthy new year. L'shana tova! Naturally, you'll want to subscribe to get all of these recipes at NYT Cooking (and thanks to those of you who already have). If you need any technical assistance, you can send an email to the genius minds at cookingcare@nytimes.com. And I'm at hellomelissa@nytimes.com if you want to say hi. A programming note: We're gearing up for the release of "Easy Weeknight Dinners," our new cookbook! To celebrate its release on Oct. 8, Emily Weinstein and Ali Slagle will be at Talea taproom in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, that evening for a live taping of the "Taste" podcast. Tickets this way! I'll be appearing with Emily at Watchung Booksellers in Montclair, N.J., on Oct. 10. You can catch Emily with Eric Kim in Washington, D.C., on Oct. 14 at Sixth and I, or see her in Richmond, Va., on Oct. 15 for an event hosted by Fountain Bookstore.
I'll leave you to consider this skillet full of golden mustard chicken with spinach and carrots — an autumnal melding of pungent flavors and comforting textures, where soft vegetables soak up lush drippings. That's all for today. See you on Monday.
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Wednesday, October 2, 2024
This meatless piccata is “a very real hit”
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