Friday, December 6, 2024

More Dreams-SiriusXM This Week

Tune in Saturday December 7th to Faction Talk, channel 103, at 4 PM East, 1 PM West.

If you miss the episode, you can hear it on demand on the SiriusXM app. Search: Lefsetz 

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✍️ IA’s Weekly Letter: Advice for Chanel’s Next Designer

Your weekly letter from the editor is here, as well as a digest of BoF's top stories across luxury, beauty, retail and sustainability this week.
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WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW TODAY: SATURDAY, DECEMBER 7, 2024


LONDON — On February 19, 2019, I was sitting in a cafe around the corner from BoF's old offices on Great Titchfield Street with our chief technology officer, Walter Badillo, when I received a text message. Karl Lagerfeld — the designer who had become a global symbol of the fashion industry — had died.

I was surprised by the sadness and grief that washed over me. Tears came to my eyes as I started to think back to all the times I had seen Karl over the years. We met so many times before and after his Chanel and Fendi shows I had lost count, but perhaps our most memorable encounter was our first: back in February 2011, when I was suddenly given the opportunity to interview him — with only 10 minutes notice.

I was at Suzy Menkes' International Herald Tribune conference in London. BoF was only three years old. I was walking the halls of the InterContinental Hotel on Park Lane after Suzy had just done a very rare live public interview with Karl on stage when someone from The Luxury Channel pulled me aside and asked me if I'd like to ask Karl Lagerfeld a few questions for their video series. I couldn't believe it! I said yes and then quickly realised I had no idea what to ask him. (I ended up asking him about Facebook, but that is a whole other story.)

Now, as speculation mounts over who will become Chanel's next creative director, I have been thinking back to what made Karl such an exceptional success. On stage with Suzy, Karl shared his thoughts on Coco Chanel, and where she went wrong, and how he was able to revitalise Chanel, making it one of the most desirable luxury brands in the world.

Karl understood that the brand's roots in the rigorous world of Haute Couture were essential to its future, but he also knew it was time for a shake-up. "When I took Chanel over, everybody said to me, 'Don't touch it, it's dead," he told Suzy. "In a way, she had made two mistakes in the end of her career. When the 60′s started — and there was certainly this movement of youth — she wanted to give lessons of elegance, so she decided miniskirts were horrible. Number two, she started to say blue jeans are horrible. You know, that was the fashion of the world of that moment. Nobody wanted to be told by an old lady that mini-skirts and jeans are not chic. The result was, she lost her power, and in the end nobody cared."

Karl frequently quoted Goethe when explaining his strategy for Chanel: "Make a better future with the expanded elements of the past." This was also captured in one of his now iconic illustrations from 1991, which I referred to a lot when I first started working in the luxury sector.

After taking over at Chanel in 1983, Karl managed to revitalise the house by unearthing and reanimating its codes, turning them into powerful signifiers of what would become a global fashion cult. This approach has now become part of the standard luxury playbook, but nobody has since done it better than Karl at Chanel, in part because the brand had such a rich lexicon for him to work with: there was the camellia flower, the quilted bag, the tweed suit, the bi-colour patent shoe and of course the interlocking C's logo.

Today, Chanel is at another critical moment.

Although some critics (and even some customers) did not appreciate Lagerfeld's ready-to-wear designs for Chanel, there's no doubt that he catapulted the brand into the cultural consciousness, with his savvy society connections, and ability to read the zeitgeist. That hasn't been the case since his death. And Chanel is a weaker brand as a result. That doesn't mean Chanel hasn't been part of the conversation. It has, but not for the right reasons, from online critique of its recent runway shows to reports of diminished manufacturing quality.

What does this mean for Chanel's next designer?

READ MORE →

Here are my other top picks from our analysis on fashion, luxury and beauty:

TOP STORIES

SPECIAL FEATURE
The State of Fashion 2025 by McKinsey & Company and BoF Insights

Fashion executives are feeling pessimistic about 2025. A long-expected post-Covid spending slowdown has arrived, while geopolitical tensions remain high. But there are still pockets of opportunity in promising new markets, in underserved customer groups and at new frontiers in customer experience, powered by artificial intelligence.

Download The State of Fashion 2025 now to explore the 10 themes that will define the industry in the year ahead.

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Aspen Live

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We just had an hilarious discussion about the ability of AI to break acts.

What we had was an outsider, who'd started a label, trying to break his bands.

How many times have we seen this?

How come no one ever believes music is a professional business. How come everybody believes that we're all wankers and we can be taught a lesson.

Remember that news guy who came into Sony to make the trains run on time? He came up with the rootkit, and he's long gone, you don't even remember his name.

AI is a tool.

But if algorithms are so damn good, how come the hit to sh*t ratio of my Spotify Discover Weekly is so damn bad?

This has been the dilemma for eons. How to predict that the AC/DC fan will like Joni Mitchell?

And the true breakthroughs...sound so foreign upon initial listen.

As for Vince's statement re his kids discovering Led Zeppelin and the rest of the classic rockers... Do you know how much marketing went into those projects? Do you know how high the barrier to entry was just to be able to record and distribute music back then? There was a ubiquity to that music that will probably never be repeated.

The skiing has been fabulous. But most interesting was the agent at WME who represents Tyler the Creator, Snoop and...HUGH JACKMAN?

And the guy who manages the Roots.

Two Black guys, Kevin and Shawn respectively. They don't lament racism in the music business, but the lack of opportunity for Black people.

And the guy who runs music for MGM Resorts International... Gambling only represents 25% of Vegas hotel revenues today.

But what is most astounding is how vast this business is, how much opportunity there is, it's almost overwhelming. Used to be you could know everything, be comprehensive, but no longer.

Back to AI... I hosted a panel last year during Grammy week and the business people were all flipped out about AI. But Don Was wasn't. He remembered the Linn drum machine. Once he saw what Prince did with it on "When Doves Cry"...he saw the opportunity. Once again, AI is a tool.

Music connects on an emotional level. That's what so great about it. It's unpredictable. And there is a business in me-too, but that's not the essence of the business, it's innovation.

And all we keep hearing about is bands as brands, merch, money. That's what business people think about. Artists? True artists are about connecting, getting their message heard.

And there aren't that many true artists out there.

But we're hungry for them.

But the channel is overloaded with wanker wannabes because the barrier to entry is so low.

And income inequality is making some potential greats give up for more lucrative jobs.

I've got to rush out for dinner at Matsuhisa.

But I was so inspired by the argument just now.

The CTO of Cisco is telling us how it's going to be.

But we've got decades of experience telling us how it really is.

Don't be afraid of innovation. That's the story of Napster. Don't circle the wagons, you're just going to be disrupted.

But the Blockchain, NFTs, AI in music...they're the hot thing and then they're not.

The hardest thing is creating great music, not selling it.

Don't forget, the success of Napster was based on all the great music of the past, and exposure of a limited number of new acts.

I've got to jump into the shower, it's late.

But the truth is this is a business about passion. That's what you need to be successful on both sides of the fence, as artist or business person.

I hope you have it.

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Do Not Read This If You're an Elon Musk Hater

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