Winner, winner, skillet chicken dinner
My cast-iron skillet is nothing fancy: 12 inches, with handles on both sides to make hoisting it in and out of the oven a bit easier. It was maybe about $20 ($10 after the Macy's mail-in rebate). But it's taken on an incredible sheen from years of use, and it's my favorite tool in the kitchen, my go-to pan for beautiful chicken dinners. To be clear, you don't need a cast-iron skillet to make Melissa Clark's skillet-braised chicken with greens and olives; any heavy-bottomed large skillet will do. I find it really satisfying, though, to sear those bone-in, skin-on thighs in the cast iron, knowing that the rendering fat is only improving my pan (and, of course, the dish itself). I love piling handfuls of chopped escarole or kale into the skillet, their green gleaming against the pan's matte black. And after this garlicky, punchy chicken dinner is served — straight from the pan, of course — I honestly enjoy gently scrubbing any remaining stubborn bits from the skillet and re-seasoning it with a wipe of oil. This perfect early-autumn meal is the main draw; playing with my favorite toy is a close second. Featured Recipe Skillet-Braised Chicken With Greens and OlivesThree more recipes for the cast-iron skillet: first, a five-star oldie but goody, Mark Bittman's crispy chickpeas with beef. Mark's earthy (cumin), spicy (ancho or chipotle chile) dish can be made with ground turkey, chicken, pork or plant-based meat (if beef isn't your thing). Be sure to scroll through the comments for some smart additions and alterations; several readers mention frying chopped onion along with the meat, which, absolutely. David Tanis's tofu Milanese combines golden, panko-crusted tofu with lemon wedges and an assertive parsley-caper sauce. If broccoli rabe is too bitter for your eaters, I'd make Millie Peartree's lemony steamed broccoli to double down on that bright citrus punch. I almost exclusively caramelize onions, leeks and mushrooms in my cast iron. The pan's heft and sturdiness emphasizes the "be patient" nature of the caramelization process. And so: Yasmin Fahr's new miso mushroom and leek pasta, where the umami flavors of said mushrooms and leeks are bolstered by miso, Parmesan and a splash of sherry vinegar. I'll swap the skillet for the Dutch oven, however, for this gloriously orange cod, celery and potato stew from Ham El-Waylly (the color coming from turmeric, paprika and coconut milk). Ham's brilliant recipe calls for an entire bunch of celery: "Braising celery," Ham writes, "awakens another texture, creating a silkiness that is often overlooked but deserves to be prized." As someone who loves a bright fish stew — and always has leftover floppy stalks sulking in her fridge — this recipe calls to me. And for the sheet pan, try these lemon-ricotta pancakes, a new recipe from Anna Francese Gass. I know I've already proclaimed that muffins can be dessert, and I do not mean to deprive breakfast of its specialness, but would I eat a short stack of these for dessert, maybe held together with lemon whipped cream, definitely with a tiny little espresso? Yes.
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Thursday, September 26, 2024
This is exactly what I want to cook right now
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