Monday, August 19, 2024

“This is an out-of-this world excellent dish!”

Yes, this reader is talking about zucchini (with roasted shrimp and za'atar yogurt, to be precise).
Cooking

August 19, 2024

A lavender platter holds roasted zucchini and shrimp with za'atar yogurt.
Melissa Clark's roasted zucchini and shrimp with za'atar yogurt. Linda Xiao for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Rebecca Jurkevich.

A colorful, crowd-pleasing zucchini dish

Hi, I'm back from vacation!

After a couple of weeks of eating out for nearly every single meal, I'm particularly delighted to be here with you, writing about cooking at home. As much as I adored our scone- and fish-and-chips-rich itinerary of Welsh pubs and English bistros, I'm also relieved to be in my own kitchen and back in control of my meals (and fried food intake). Bring on the fresh vegetables!

Naturally, since it's August, there's an absolute abbondanza of zucchini, or as I've had to refer to them recently, courgettes (for reasons best known to themselves, the Brits prefer the French term to the Italian). Cutting them thick and roasting at high heat not only turns them golden, it also keeps them from turning mushy, the inherent vice of zucchini dishes in every language.

I like to add shrimp to the mix, as in my roasted zucchini with shrimp and za'atar yogurt, which makes it an easy, I'm-still-jetlagged dinner. The key is to add the shrimp at the very end, giving them just enough time to turn succulently pink without overcooking. The yogurt sauce brings it all together into a garlicky, herby, zucchini-y mΓ©lange.

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Roasted Zucchini and Shrimp With Za'atar Yogurt

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Another dish that combines seasonal veggies and seafood is a classic Caribbean fish tea, worlds away from the cream teas we shared in London. You can make Ashley Lonsdale's buoyant summery version with either whole fish or fillets, which are simmered with corn and green beans in a fragrant broth of Scotch bonnet chiles, fresh ginger and allspice. Or, for a meatier partner for those summer vegetables, how about a skillet chicken with silky peppers and green olives? Add some bread to make sure no savory pan juices are left behind.

Avocados aren't necessarily a summer vegetable (or a summer fruit, for that matter), but there is something summery about them. Here they star in Sandra A. Gutierrez's pasta con palta — pasta with a creamy, good-for-you avocado pesto. It's a speedy weeknight dish from Chile in which Hass avocados and walnuts are blended into a glossy, satiny sauce that's a snap to make. Serve it with a big green salad for a verdant, sustaining meal.

Because it's August, it's only right to include a no-cook dish here, and of course Ali Slagle has a fantastic one. Her new recipe for prosciutto and melon salad is a twist on a minimalist antipasto, with mozzarella for creaminess and lots of arugula for a peppery bite. Serve it with breadsticks and cold frizzante and pretend you're on vacation in Italy. Ah, vacation.

Finally, on to dessert. My take on summer fruit crumble is fruity, crisp and full of burbling, syrupy juice. You can make it with any ripe fruit — or frozen, too, when summer's just a humid memory. To get the crunchiest topping achievable by humankind, I pre-bake the crumbles until they're like little cookies and scatter them across the molten fruit. Add some ice cream and live your best late-summer life.

As always, you'll need to subscribe to get the recipes (and we thank you if you already do). Note that if you bump into any technical problems, you can send an email to cookingcare@nytimes.com for help. And I'm at hellomelissa@nytimes.com if you want to say hi.

That's all for now. I'll see you Wednesday.

IN THIS NEWSLETTER

Article Image

Rachel Vanni for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Barrett Washburne.

Summer Fish Tea

By Ashley Lonsdale

45 minutes

Makes 4 to 6 servings

Article Image

David Malosh for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.

Skillet Chicken With Silky Peppers and Green Olives

By Melissa Clark

45 minutes

Makes 4 to 6 servings

Spaghetti is enveloped in a creamy sauce made with Hass avocados for this dish, called pasta con palta, or creamy, vegan avocado pesto pasta. It is served in a bowl with a bite of spaghetti twisted on a metal fork on the right.

David Malosh for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.

Pasta con Palta (Creamy Avocado Pesto Pasta)

Recipe from Sandra A. Gutierrez

Adapted by Christina Morales

30 minutes

Makes 4 servings

Article Image

Bryan Gardner for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Greg Lofts.

Prosciutto and Melon Salad

By Ali Slagle

15 minutes

Makes 4 servings

Article Image

Julia Gartland for The New York Times (Photography and Styling)

The Crunchiest Summer Fruit Crumble

By Melissa Clark

1 3/4 hours, plus cooling

Makes 8 servings

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