Monday, September 16, 2024

Inside Luxury’s Italian Sweatshops Problem

London Fashion Week; i-D's New Editor-in-Chief
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WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW TODAY: TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 2024

Dear BoF Community,

Big luxury brands trade on a carefully constructed marketing image powered by a heady collision of heritage and celebrity culture. Key to the storytelling are artful claims to high-quality and ethical craftsmanship. Now, an Italian investigation linking luxury brands to sweatshop labour has exposed an operating model that prosecutors say prioritises profits over worker welfare.

How did sourcing practices diverge so radically from the marketing mythology that luxury brands have spent decades — and billions of dollars — constructing? "A blend of wilful ignorance, corporate greed and structural inertia," according to a months-long investigation by BoF's Chief Sustainability Correspondent Sarah Kent, who spoke to more than two dozen industry executives, supply-chain experts and people familiar with the Italian probe.

The luxury industry has shrugged off scandals in the past, but the current controversy comes amid increased regulatory scrutiny, a market slowdown and growing debate on social media over whether luxury brands are really worth it.

Read Sarah's story: "Inside Luxury's Italian Sweatshops Problem."

Vikram Alexei Kansara, Editorial Director

Plus, also in today's BoF Daily Digest newsletter:

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BoF VOICES 2024, our annual gathering for big thinkers, returns to Soho Farmhouse in Oxfordshire this November 12 to 15 to unite the movers, shakers and trailblazers of the global fashion, luxury and beauty industries with the thought leaders, entrepreneurs and inspiring people who are shaping the wider world.

Across five sessions, over three days, we'll convene more than 40 expert speakers including Valentino's creative director Alessandro Michele and chief executive Jacopo Venturini, designer Simon Porte Jacquemus, climate activist and founder of youth non-profit Force of Nature Clover Hogan, David Allemann of Swiss sports company On, Jens Grede of viral lingerie and loungewear brand Skims, fashion advocate and documentarian Bethann Hardison, and luxury e-commerce leaders Lauren Santo Domingo of Moda Operandi and Michael Kliger of MyTheresa.

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