Monday, November 11, 2024

A classic risotto to zhuzh up however you like

Or don't: A bowl of this easy, creamy risotto is perfect as is.
Cooking

November 11, 2024

A gold spoon gently scoops creamy Parmesan risotto in a gray bowl. Additional Parmesan cheese for sprinkling is in a small bowl nearby, as is a second serving of risotto.
Kay Chun's risotto. Christopher Testani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Monica Pierini.

Velvety risotto, hot honey chicken and chewy brown butter cookies

Today seems to me like a good day to stir the pot — the risotto pot, I mean. Traditional recipes have you add broth bit by bit as you stir constantly, and even though you really need to stir it only now and then (so the rice doesn't stick to the bottom of the pan), a session of rhythmic, gentle stirring can be just what you need at the end of a long day.

I often come back to this classic risotto by Kay Chun. You can serve it plain and simple, as it is, or stir in any number of vegetables or proteins to jazz it up. I'm a fan of tossing in a handful of peas and baby spinach for a green-flecked dish that reminds me of spring. An added bonus: The recipe calls for half a cup of dry white wine, so choose something you'd want to drink with dinner, and feel free to sneak a sip while the risotto burbles. Cook's prerogative, after all.

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Classic Risotto

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Or maybe you're craving a little sweetness, possibly paired with fiery, distracting spice. Look no further than Vallery Lomas's roasted chicken thighs with hot honey and lime. Liberally seasoned with onion and garlic powders, honey, and lime zest, these crisp-skinned thighs are bathed in buttery chile sauce right at the end for heat and a glossy shine. Serve them with Genevieve Ko's easy microwave baked potato to smoosh into all the fragrant, schmaltzy drippings.

Traditional XO sauce is made from a pricey mélange of dried scallops, dried shrimp and cured Chinese ham. Dolloped on noodles, eggs, rice dishes and the like, it brings a mild, saline funk that unfailingly boosts all the other ingredients.

But Kay Chun has blazed another path toward this savory summit. By using a tin of smoked mussels as the base of the sauce, she replicates the XO magic in a more economical and convenient way. She then brushes the sauce on pieces of salmon and eggplant before roasting for a silky, rich dish to serve over rice. It's a lovely, umami-rich sheet-pan meal that could bust anyone out of a weeknight rut.

Riffing vegan on a different Chinese classic, Hetty "Tofu Bo Peep" Lui McKinnon loses the lamb in a celebrated stir-fry dish and replaces it with bean curd and cauliflower. Her peppery, cumin-y tofu stir-fry (adapted by Margaux Laskey) is her take on a signature dish at Xi'an Famous Foods, a restaurant chain in New York. Bursting with intense spicy flavors and soft, supple textures, it's a feast for heat-seeking vegetable lovers everywhere.

And for dessert: Genevieve's chewy brown butter cookies speckled with nuts and oats. These butterscotch-y beauties, with their nubby, crunchy texture, are decidedly at the top of my cookie to-do list.

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That's all for now. I'll see you on Wednesday.

IN THIS NEWSLETTER

Seven roasted chicken thighs with hot honey and lime are on an ivory plate with squeezed lime wedges.

Armando Rafael for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Cyd Raftus McDowell.

Roasted Chicken Thighs With Hot Honey and Lime

By Vallery Lomas

35 minutes

Makes 4 servings

Article Image

Christopher Testani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.

Microwave Baked Potato

By Genevieve Ko

20 minutes

Makes 1 serving

Article Image

David Malosh for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.

Sheet-Pan Salmon and Eggplant With XO Sauce

By Kay Chun

40 minutes

Makes 4 servings

Article Image

David Malosh for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.

Cumin Tofu Stir-Fry

Recipe from Hetty Lui McKinnon

Adapted by Margaux Laskey

25 minutes, plus 20 to 30 minutes' marinating time

Makes 4 servings

Article Image

Johnny Miller for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Vivian Lui.

Chewy Brown Butter Cookies

By Genevieve Ko

1 hour 35 minutes, plus cooling

Makes Makes 1 dozen

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