Wednesday, September 18, 2024

“This has become my absolute favorite meal.”

This cauliflower shawarma with spicy tahini is a New York Times Cooking classic.
Cooking

September 18, 2024

Cauliflower shawarma is shown on a pita on a ceramic plate with spicy tahini sauce nearby.
Melissa Clark's cauliflower shawarma with spicy tahini. Christopher Simpson for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.

My cauliflower shawarma, a forever favorite

Though there are plenty of obvious upsides to being an interim restaurant critic for The New York Times, I've found one major drawback: I cook less. As much as I adore the convivial adventures of dining out, I still miss the cozy cadence of nights in with my family — dicing onions, mincing herbs, mixing our own drinks while spilling the tea. Cooking has been my creative, therapeutic and family time for as long as I can remember, and doing less of it has only made it more precious.

This reviewing gig has changed my cooking, too. Restaurant meals are generally larger, richer and more meat-heavy than what I'd whip up on a Wednesday. So whenever I'm back at the stove I steer toward lighter, meatless fare that's exuberantly flavored and fun to cook.

Case in point, the prep for my cauliflower shawarma with spicy tahini keeps things to a conversational pace. Just toss cauliflower florets with oil and spices and then put them in the oven to roast while you chat. As they soften and caramelize and wrap you in their cumin-y perfume, you can catch up on the headlines of the day (OMG, she did what in chem lab?) while whisking the harissa-flecked tahini sauce. Then you can enjoy family dinner, homework monitoring, maybe an episode of Kaos (OMG, she did what in the underworld?), all without a reservation.

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Cauliflower Shawarma With Spicy Tahini

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If it's still shawarma when you take the chicken out, then it's still Alfredo if you put some chicken in. Naz Deravian's chicken Alfredo adds slices of seared boneless, skinless white meat to bowls of Parmesan-laced pasta Alfredo for protein and heft. Don't ignore Naz's tip to use freshly grated cheese, because the pre-grated stuff often has additives that make it hard to emulsify into the sauce.

There's just a whisper of meat in Kay Chun's garlicky broccoli pasta: She sautés chopped salami along with breadcrumbs to make a crispy, savory topping for orecchiette that's liberally studded with soft, green bits of broccoli and chives. But Colu Henry's emerald-hued farro and green bean salad with walnuts and dill is inherently, wonderfully vegan with its nubby texture and snappy flavors. That is, unless you want to sprinkle in some feta cheese, which Colu mentions as a briny off-menu option.

Madhur Jaffrey's recipes have long been a source of home-cooked comfort for me, and her shrimp pullao is a perfect example of why. The yellow turmeric rice is dotted with green chiles and tender pink shrimp, all suffused with garam masala. Serve it with some salted yogurt on the side for a creamy, tangy contrast to the homey carbs. Five stars, absolutely worth staying in for.

I may be cooking lighter but I'm not giving up dessert, oh no. Lisa Donovan's stone fruit clafoutis is like a juicy, fruit-forward flan that's a breeze to whip up in a skillet with whatever late summer peaches, plums or nectarines you've got. Then revisit the recipe in the fall when ripe pears make an alluring seasonal substitute.

To get these recipes — along with thousands upon thousands more — you'll want to subscribe to New York Times Cooking. If you meet a technical issue, email the smart people at cookingcare@nytimes.com for help. And I'm at hellomelissa@nytimes.com if you want to say hi.

A red baking dish holds roasted fish with cherry tomatoes.
Andrew Purcell for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Barrett Washburne.

Lidey Heuck supplies this week's one-pot recipe — technically a one-pan recipe, since her roasted fish with cherry tomatoes comes together in a baking dish. Made with fillets of your favorite kind of fish seasoned with honey, shallots and lemon zest, this is a colorful, 30-minute meal with verve to spare.

IN THIS NEWSLETTER

Article Image

Christopher Testani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.

Chicken Alfredo

By Naz Deravian

55 minutes

Makes 6 servings

Article Image

Armando Rafael for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Cyd Raftus McDowell.

Broccoli Pasta With Salami Bread Crumbs

By Kay Chun

45 minutes

Makes 4 servings

Article Image

David Malosh for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.

Farro and Green Bean Salad With Walnuts and Dill

By Colu Henry

35 minutes

Makes 4 to 6 servings

Article Image

David Malosh for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.

Shrimp Pullao

Recipe from Madhur Jaffrey

Adapted by Melissa Clark

50 minutes

Makes 6 servings

Article Image

Chris Simpson for The New York Times Food stylist: Maggie Ruggiero. Prop stylist: Sophia Eleni Pappas.

Stone Fruit Clafoutis

By Lisa Donovan

About 11/2 hours, plus cooling

Makes 6 to 8 servings

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Tanya Sichynsky shares the most delicious vegetarian recipes for weeknight cooking, packed lunches and dinner parties.

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Tanya Sichynsky shares the most delicious vegetarian recipes for weeknight cooking, packed lunches and dinner parties.

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