Zha jiang mian to reset and restore
Good morning. I'm still smarting over the two really expensive sandwiches I bought the other day at a gourmet shop in the next town over: one of them an ostensibly Italian number on white-bread focaccia, fridge-cold and tasteless; the other a "spicy" fried chicken cutlet on soggy pretzel bread with kimchi. That one was bathwater-warm and tasteless. Both were a reminder that the eating life isn't always a run of wins. There are cruel defeats along the way, and the best thing to do when you experience them is to make absolutely sure that the meal that follows the loss is delicious. To wit, try zha jiang mian, a classic Beijing-style dish of noodles with fried bean sauce that is porky and rich, salty-sweet and satisfying. You don't need to have had a terrible meal in the hours before making it to experience its excellence, but it is a revelation if you have. It's the sort of meal you ought to make after a day of airline snacks or conference-room repasts, and definitely on Friday nights. It's perfect weekend fare even if you've been lucky enough to eat well all week. When it comes to these two days that some of us have off from work, we should be looking for five-star delectable every time. Featured Recipe Zha Jiang MianOther recipes in that vein: the tuna melt from Golden Diner in New York City; the buttermilk fried chicken I learned to make years ago in Rehoboth Beach, Del.; and the fish chowder that Julia Moskin picked up in the kitchen of Eventide, in Portland, Maine. I'd like to make a bo ssam on Saturday night, with a double apple pie to follow. A buttery breakfast casserole on Sunday morning? Yes, please, with a breakfast salad alongside it to encourage napping through the midday hours. And for dinner on Sunday? Autumn has fallen. It's time again for Sunday sauce over pasta and a Lucali salad to eat on the red-stained plates afterward. If none of that appeals, there are thousands and thousands more recipes to consider cooking this weekend waiting for you on New York Times Cooking. You need a subscription to read them, of course. Subscriptions support our work. Please, if you haven't already, would you consider subscribing today? Thank you. Should you find yourself in a jam with our technology, do reach out for help: cookingcare@nytimes.com. Someone will get back to you. If you'd like to lodge a complaint or register your satisfaction, you can also write to me: foodeditor@nytimes.com. I can't respond to every letter. But I read each one I get. Now, it's a considerable distance from anything to do with roast beef or scuffins, but here's Drew Magary in Outside, on tourists ravaging Yellowstone National Park. My pal Ned turned me on to a fantastic tale of commercial fishing in Australia in the 1960s: Nino Culotta's "Gone Fishin'." (Culotta is the pseudonym of the writer John O'Grady, who died in 1981.) It begins with an epigram: "Lo the angler. He riseth early in the morning and upsetteth the whole household. Mighty are his preparations. He goeth forth with a great hope in his heart — and when the day is far spent he returneth, smelling of strong drink, and the truth is not in him." Dwight Garner entered the Sally Rooney discourse this week in The New York Times Book Review, with a rave for her new novel, "Intermezzo." (David Marchese, for his part, interviewed the author for The New York Times Magazine.) Finally, there's a new Bon Iver track out, "Speyside," that is old-school Bon Iver, plucky and sad. "Nothing's really something, now the whole thing's soot." Listen to that while you're making something delicious, and I'll see you on Sunday.
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Friday, September 27, 2024
Rich, salty-sweet zha jiang mian
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