Friday, September 13, 2024

Parmesan, meet cauliflower

As in Melissa Clark's cauliflower Parmesan, a five-star reader favorite.
Cooking

September 13, 2024

A white ceramic casserole dish holds cauliflower Parmesan sprinkled with basil leaves.
Melissa Clark's cauliflower parmesan. Christopher Testani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.

Parmesan your cauliflower

Good morning. The beefsteak tomatoes outperformed the heirloom varieties for me this summer, and the corn from the place nearer the ocean was sweeter than the up-island ears. I've been eating both three times a week for a couple of months now. It's been a great season. I could probably eat tomatoes and corn forever.

But I won't. Soon enough, the tomatoes will turn from blood-red excellence into blandness. The corn will go starchy. Disappointment looms. And that's fine. Comes now cauliflower, and the promise of fall. I'm excited to mark its arrival.

I like cauliflower as shawarma, with a spicy tahini alongside. I like it in adobo. Also, charred in stew. It's excellent blackened. And it's very, very good as a substitute for wings in the Buffalo tradition.

But what I'm most looking forward to this weekend is cauliflower parm (above). Melissa Clark's recipe cloaks fried florets in marinara sauce and melted mozzarella under a shower of Parmesan. You could serve that as is, with spaghetti or a salad, but I like it best piled into a toasted hero roll for a sub of distinction, a dinner that resembles lunch at the Italian spot near the docks, the sort of sandwich you'd ordinarily eat standing by the hood of your car. Serve that sandwich on china at the dinner table, with the lights turned low and candles flickering, and you've achieved a kind of magic: Not Your Usual Saturday Night Meal.

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Cauliflower Parmesan

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Alternatively, you can keep on summering. The blue crabs are really lively right now where I stay, bright at the claw and sweet beyond compare. They're terrific steamed over beer and vinegar, with plenty of Old Bay or J.O. seasoning. I love these hot and numbing new potatoes, too, with cumin lamb burgers — a taste of summer edging into fall.

And it's a treat to take fairy tale eggplants and use them in place of the big boys in Hetty Lui McKinnon's recipe for charred eggplant with burrata and fried capers, a recipe that I could see serving to raves.

There are thousands and thousands more recipes to consider cooking this weekend waiting for you on New York Times Cooking. Yes, you need a subscription to read them. Subscriptions support this work that we've been doing for the past 10 years. They allow it to continue. Please, if you haven't already, would you consider subscribing today? Thanks.

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Now, it's a far cry from anything to do with blanching peas or icing a cake, but if you find yourself in proximity to the Kirsten Dunst film "Civil War," it's worth viewing. Not for its depiction of journalism, for certain, but for its general dystopian vibe. Sometimes that's just the ticket.

Michael Lewis has a fascinating story in The Washington Post about the most interesting organization that most people have never heard of, and the awards it gives out to government workers most people have never heard of, including Chris Mark of the Department of Labor.

In The New York Times, here's Elisabeth Egan on Don Lemon, who has a new memoir out, a year after he was fired by CNN.

Finally, new Halsey just dropped: "Ego." I'm hoping that someone comes around. See you on Sunday.

IN THIS NEWSLETTER

Article Image

David Malosh for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.

Cauliflower Adobo

By Ali Slagle

45 minutes

Makes 4 servings

Article Image

Zachary Zavislak; Food Stylist: Brian Preston-Campbell. Prop Stylist: Meghan Guthrie.

Steamed Blue Crabs

By Sam Sifton

30 minutes

Makes Serves 4

Article Image

Nico Schinco for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Barrett Washburne.

Spicy Cumin Lamb Burgers

Recipe from Jason Wang and David Shi

Adapted by Christina Morales and Alexa Weibel

40 minutes (or about 2 hours if making the bread)

Makes 4 sandwiches

Article Image

Johnny Miller for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Susan Spungen.

Hot and Numbing Stir-Fried New Potatoes

By J. Kenji López-Alt

40 minutes

Makes 4 to 6 servings

Article Image

Mark Weinberg for The New York Times. Food Styling by Barrett Washburne.

Charred Eggplant With Burrata and Fried Capers

By Hetty Lui McKinnon

20 minutes

Makes 4 servings

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