"I have made this recipe many, many (many!) times"If there's ever a "secret" ingredient to my cooking, it's probably anchovies. Tossing a few genial fillets into just about anything (salad dressings, eggs, pastas, beans, stews) imbues a salty, funky earthiness that's not the least bit fishy. Anchovies contribute so much verve for so little effort and expense, and they are — along with garlic and lemon — a key seasoning in much of my weeknight cooking. My garlicky chicken with lemon-anchovy sauce, a hit with readers, is a perfect example. Once added to a pan of hot oil and prodded gently with a spoon, the anchovies melt away, leaving only their savory magic. Mixed with garlic and a fistful of capers, the umami-rich oil becomes the foundation of the sauce, elevating plain old chicken thighs to ambrosial heights. Featured Recipe Garlicky Chicken With Lemon-Anchovy SauceSome may balk at the idea of anchovies, but you could simply neglect to mention them (unless, of course, there's an allergy involved) since they vanish into the sauce. This tactic worked for a while with our anchovy-averse daughter, but by grade school she was on to us. She still won't eat a visible anchovy, but the ones melted into garlic oil in her favorite midnight pasta get a pass. Pajeon (Korean scallion pancakes) are another good place for sea creatures of all kinds; bits of squid, shrimp and clams are often slipped into the batter. They aren't vital, though, and Sohui Kim, the chef of the Brooklyn restaurants Insa and Gage & Tollner, prefers to leave them out. Instead, in her golden, crisp-edged vegetable pajeon, she lets an array of vegetables (either raw veggies or cooked leftovers) keep the scallions company. She serves them with a simple dipping sauce of soy, sesame oil and grated fresh ginger, but a squirt of hot sauce and a few lime wedges would also make an easy, fuss-free accompaniment. Moving on to more obvious seafood, check out the crescents of pink shrimp flaunting themselves atop leafy broccoli rabe in this 20-minute sheet-pan dinner. It's a delight for pescatarians, omnivores and anyone else who loves a brightly hued, speedy meal with a red chile kick. An orange wedge squeezed over the top mitigates the heat with its sweet, juicy tang. Now that we're thinking pink, let's check in with mortadella, that soft Italian cold cut with a silky texture, rosy blush and mildly brawny flavor. Ali Slagle uses mortadella in her carbonara, letting the bologna-like meat melt into the eggy, cheesy sauce and stirring in green peas for a welcome pop of color and freshness. There's nothing pink and no seafood in Hetty Lui McKinnon's new recipe for one-pot mushroom and ginger rice, and no one will miss them. Hetty's clever twist is to take the Chinese technique of velveting — coating a protein in cornstarch before cooking to help keep it tender — and apply it to mushrooms. The mushrooms stay plump and juicy as they cook in the rice, which is liberally doused with fresh ginger and sesame oil. Hetty offers an optional step of crisping the rice for a crunchy contrast, but the dish is just as good and maybe even more comforting when everything stays soft and supple. Also, "velveting" is my favorite verb. For dessert, I've been itching to make Amanda Saab's namoura ever since Tejal Rao adapted the recipe for us in 2017. Riffing on a recipe from her Lebanese grandmother, Amanda adds a touch of lavender extract to the soaking syrup before pouring it over this puddinglike cake, which has a buttery semolina base. If you're feeding this to any lavender dislikers, you can substitute vanilla extract or rosewater. Obviously, you'll want to subscribe to get these and all of the other thousands upon thousands of recipes we have at New York Times Cooking. If you need any technical advice (now, where did that recipe box go? Why can't I print?), send an email to cookingcare@nytimes.com for help. And if you'd like to say hi, I'm at hellomelissa@nytimes.com. That's all for now. See you on Wednesday.
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Monday, March 18, 2024
“I have made this recipe many, many (many!) times"
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