Friday, October 11, 2024

A chicken dinner that goes all in on apples

Apple cider chicken with apples and parsnips, supremely seasonal and super simple.
Cooking

October 11, 2024

Apple cider chicken with apples and parsnips is shown in a stainless steel skillet with a serving spoon.
Carolina Gelen's apple cider chicken with apples and parsnips. Armando Rafael for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.

A chicken dinner that goes all in on apples

Good morning. It was a perfect weekend in New York City: dinner at Torrisi, no alarm in the morning, a late breakfast at Ba Xuyen, a long walk along the beach at Fort Tilden. Then, soft meatballs and freezing cold martinis at Cozy Royale, followed by Soul Coughing at Brooklyn Steel. Super bon bon.

No alarm on Sunday morning either! Walked the dogs, trimmed a hedge, made like President Barack Obama with the almonds for lunch, then free-styled dinner.

But that was last weekend. This one arrives heartbroken at the destruction wrought by Hurricane Milton and shocked by the weather's power to destroy. It also welcomes Yom Kippur, which starts at sunset. For those observing, a day of atonement will follow, with reflection and fasting. I hope you'll look to us for recipes with which to break the fast tomorrow night.

My notion? Carolina Gelen's new recipe for apple cider chicken with apples and parsnips (above), with a floater of apple cider vinegar added at the end. Sweet with a subtle saltiness and an earthy punch from the parsnips, it'd be lovely paired with a crispy potato kugel.

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Apple Cider Chicken With Apples and Parsnips

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But I get it if you'd prefer bagels and lox, ideally served with Ali Slagle's everything bagel smoked-salmon dip alongside them, and a deep bowl of Zabar's-style egg salad. Or Melissa Clark's onion quiche? So great.

Other things to cook this weekend: marble cake; trout with chive butter; masala black-eyed peas. I love a smoky fish chowder this time of year.

And when was the last time you made focaccia? Genevieve Ko's recipe brings it to you fast and easy. Just add deli meats, cheese and pesto and you'll be all set for the Giants-Bengals game on the couch.

If none of that tickles your fancy, you could always riff on a recipe I read in Melissa Martin's excellent new Cajun cookbook, "Bayou," out last month: Worcestershire-spiked hamburgers in gravy with caramelized onions, hoo boy.

This was simple, delicious, a '50s-throwback meal. To start, caramelize onions. Caramelize them deeply. Then mix up some not-lean ground beef with Worcestershire sauce, salt, pepper, onion and garlic powders, and fry a few burgers of that in the same pan, searing them hard but not cooking them through. Put the burgers next to the onions on a plate, then hit the pan with some butter and flour to make a little roux, adding stock to make a gravy. Return the meat and the onions to the pan and heat it all through. Serve a burger, each topped with onions and gravy, next to mashed potatoes. You'll want the book after eating dinner, I'm guessing.

There are thousands more actual recipes to consider cooking this weekend waiting for you on New York Times Cooking. You do, of course, need a subscription to read them. Subscriptions support our work and allow it to continue. Please, if you haven't already, would you consider subscribing today? Thank you.

If you need help with your account, drop us a line at cookingcare@nytimes.com. Someone will get back to you. Or you can write to me: foodeditor@nytimes.com. I can't respond to every letter. But I read each one I get.

Now, it's nothing to do with bialys or sassafras, but I read another Tim Johnston novel, his first, "Descent," and commend it to anyone who enjoys dark thrillers with big, human hearts.

Why, yes, I would like to have an electrified vintage Ford Bronco in my garage. Rosecrans Baldwin, in GQ, wrote about the company that's building them, albeit at a price point well beyond my means.

Dwight Garner, in The New York Times Book Review, had a great time reviewing a new oral history of The New York Post, "Paper of Wreckage," by Susan Mulcahy and Frank DiGiacomo.

Finally (of course), here's some vintage Soul Coughing to play us off, "Screenwriter's Blues." Enjoy that and I'll see you on Sunday.

IN THIS NEWSLETTER

Article Image

Linda Xiao for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Monica Pierini.

Everything-Bagel Smoked Salmon Dip

By Ali Slagle

5 minutes

Makes 4 servings 

Article Image

Linda Xiao for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Monica Pierini.

Masala Black-Eyed Peas

By Zainab Shah

25 minutes

Makes 4 to 6 servings 

A sheet pan holds golden, fluffy focaccia sprinkled with sea salt.

Linda Xiao for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Monica Pierini.

Fast and Easy Focaccia

By Genevieve Ko

2 hours 10 minutes

Makes 1 (9-by-13-inch) focaccia

Article Image

Jim Wilson/The New York Times

Eli Zabar's Egg Salad Sandwich

Recipe from E.A.T.

Adapted by Elaine Louie

30 minutes

Makes 2 sandwiches

Several slices of yellow Bundt cake, swirled with sections of chocolate, are photographed from overhead on a light gray plate.

David Malosh for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.

Marble Cake

By Genevieve Ko

3 hours

Makes 1 (10-inch) cake

Fresh, delicious dinner ideas for busy people, from Emily Weinstein and NYT Cooking.

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