Thursday, August 1, 2024

Mapo tofu scramble, a fast “why didn’t I think of that?” dinner

Adding soft scrambled eggs to spicy mapo tofu is a genius move.
Cooking

August 1, 2024

An oval platter holds mapo tofu scramble with slivered scallions.
Christian Reynoso's mapo tofu scramble. Bryan Gardner for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Greg Lofts.

Spicy mapo tofu scramble, citrusy sumac roasted fish and creamy coconut-lemon pie

By Mia Leimkuhler

I am mad for mapo tofu. It is a textural-flavor fever dream: soft tofu, nubbly ground meat, maybe some crisp-tender fermented greens in a fire-engine-red blanket of tongue-tingling, oily spices. To borrow a term from the YouTube channel Chinese Cooking Demystified, it's a veritable rice killer, the kind of dish that calls for loads of white rice to both tame the fire and absorb all of that glorious sauce.

So, reader, the gasp I gasped when I saw this recipe for mapo tofu scramble from Christian Reynoso. Christian adds soft scrambled eggs to the bold, spicy mix, a genius "why didn't I think of that?" move, as the eggs are a perfect vehicle for trapping the mapo sauce. It's a fast, one-skillet meal I'd eat for breakfast, lunch or dinner, maybe with buttered toast, definitely with rice.

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Mapo Tofu Scramble

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The tomatoes are going full tomato where I live, so it's time to bust out Clare de Boer's recipe for grilled chicken thighs with tomatoes and Andy Baraghani's equally gorgeous harissa-grilled steak with juicy tomatoes. It's also a great time to invite you to join our August Grilling Challenge with Wirecutter, which kicks off next week! Every Tuesday in August, you'll get our favorite grilling recipes — and Wirecutter's recommendations for the best grilling gear — to help you optimize outdoor cooking, as well as exclusive discounts on editor-approved gear. Make sure you're signed up here!

I'm also a sucker for anything sumac: I love its floral sourness, that rounded citrusy flavor it adds to all sorts of dishes. This mahi ba somagh (sumac roasted fish) looks like a perfect summer Saturday dinner, to be served with an impressive polo ba tahdig if I'm feeling fancy or baked French fries if I'm not.

And if I'm feeling particularly bushed, there are Eric Kim's avocado hand rolls, which turn a fresh pot of rice — a balm for frayed nerves and hungry stomachs — into a satisfying, assemble-it-yourself vegetarian meal.

Lastly: I'm crazy for coconut, I love lemon and I hate choosing. So things are looking real good for this coconut-lemon pie from Yossy Arefi. Come to think of it, this cold, creamy treat would be particularly delicious after a fiery mapo tofu dinner — a real feast of favorites.

IN THIS NEWSLETTER

Article Image

Kate Sears for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Chris Lanier.

Grilled Chicken Thighs With Tomatoes

By Clare de Boer

45 minutes

Makes 4 servings

Article Image

Emma Fishman for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Hadas Smirnoff.

Harissa-Grilled Steak With Juicy Tomatoes 

By Andy Baraghani

30 minutes

Makes 4 servings 

Two butterflied trout are roasted with sumac and served with citrus slices.

David Malosh for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.

Mahi ba Somagh (Sumac Roasted Fish)

By Naz Deravian

15 minutes

Makes 4 servings 

Article Image

Con Poulos for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews. Prop Stylist: Paige Hicks.

Polo Ba Tahdig (Persian Rice With Bread Crust)

By Samin Nosrat

1 1/2 hours, plus 30 minutes' soaking

Makes 6 to 8 servings

Article Image

Michael Kraus for The New York Times

Baked French Fries

By Melissa Clark

35 minutes

Makes 4 servings

Article Image

David Malosh for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.

Avocado Hand Rolls

By Eric Kim

35 minutes

Makes 2 servings

Article Image

Christopher Simpson for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.

Mapo Tofu

By Andrea Nguyen

30 minutes

Makes 4 servings (about 4 cups)

Article Image

Linda Xiao for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Yossy Arefi.

Creamy Coconut-Lemon Pie

By Yossy Arefi

About 45 minutes, plus cooling and overnight chilling 

Makes One 9-inch pie

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Tanya Sichynsky shares the most delicious vegetarian recipes for weeknight cooking, packed lunches and dinner parties.

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Tanya Sichynsky shares the most delicious vegetarian recipes for weeknight cooking, packed lunches and dinner parties.

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