Spicy mapo tofu scramble, citrusy sumac roasted fish and creamy coconut-lemon pie
I am mad for mapo tofu. It is a textural-flavor fever dream: soft tofu, nubbly ground meat, maybe some crisp-tender fermented greens in a fire-engine-red blanket of tongue-tingling, oily spices. To borrow a term from the YouTube channel Chinese Cooking Demystified, it's a veritable rice killer, the kind of dish that calls for loads of white rice to both tame the fire and absorb all of that glorious sauce. So, reader, the gasp I gasped when I saw this recipe for mapo tofu scramble from Christian Reynoso. Christian adds soft scrambled eggs to the bold, spicy mix, a genius "why didn't I think of that?" move, as the eggs are a perfect vehicle for trapping the mapo sauce. It's a fast, one-skillet meal I'd eat for breakfast, lunch or dinner, maybe with buttered toast, definitely with rice. Featured Recipe Mapo Tofu ScrambleThe tomatoes are going full tomato where I live, so it's time to bust out Clare de Boer's recipe for grilled chicken thighs with tomatoes and Andy Baraghani's equally gorgeous harissa-grilled steak with juicy tomatoes. It's also a great time to invite you to join our August Grilling Challenge with Wirecutter, which kicks off next week! Every Tuesday in August, you'll get our favorite grilling recipes — and Wirecutter's recommendations for the best grilling gear — to help you optimize outdoor cooking, as well as exclusive discounts on editor-approved gear. Make sure you're signed up here! I'm also a sucker for anything sumac: I love its floral sourness, that rounded citrusy flavor it adds to all sorts of dishes. This mahi ba somagh (sumac roasted fish) looks like a perfect summer Saturday dinner, to be served with an impressive polo ba tahdig if I'm feeling fancy or baked French fries if I'm not. And if I'm feeling particularly bushed, there are Eric Kim's avocado hand rolls, which turn a fresh pot of rice — a balm for frayed nerves and hungry stomachs — into a satisfying, assemble-it-yourself vegetarian meal. Lastly: I'm crazy for coconut, I love lemon and I hate choosing. So things are looking real good for this coconut-lemon pie from Yossy Arefi. Come to think of it, this cold, creamy treat would be particularly delicious after a fiery mapo tofu dinner — a real feast of favorites.
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Thursday, August 1, 2024
Mapo tofu scramble, a fast “why didn’t I think of that?” dinner
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