Sunday, August 4, 2024

How to KBBQ at home

Eric Kim's new recipe relies on a "pitch-perfect" marinade, "salty, sweet and savory in just the right ways."
Cooking

August 4, 2024

Korean barbecue steak is shown on a blue platter with lettuce. Ssamjang and steamed rice is shown on the side.
Peter Cho's Korean BBQ steak, adapted by Eric Kim. Linda Xiao for The New York Times. Food stylist: Maggie Ruggiero. Prop Stylist: Sophia Eleni Pappas.

KBBQ to make ASAP

Good morning. Korean barbecue is one of the great restaurant meals, a feast delivered in small plates of banchan, piles of lettuce and saucers of ssamjang and sesame oil, alongside large platters of raw, marinated meat for the grill in the center of the table.

But it's possible, even sometimes preferable, to eat Korean barbecue at home. And if you're going to do so, it's wise to follow the instruction of chef Peter Cho: He has built a small empire of Korean restaurants in Portland, Ore., that manage to leave diners feeling not only that they've eaten with his family, but also that they might be able to pass that privilege on to their own crowd, in their own kitchens.

This month, Cho shared his secrets for just such a meal with our Eric Kim, along with a recipe for Korean BBQ steak (above) that, Eric reported, relies on a "pitch-perfect" marinade, "salty, sweet and savory in just the right ways." You won't need a lot of steak. Proper Korean barbecue, Cho advises, is roughly 50 percent crunchy vegetables, lots of lettuce, ssamjang, perhaps the scallion salad known as pa muchim. Add a bowl of doenjang jigae at the end, with white rice? That's a fantastic Sunday supper.

Featured Recipe

Korean BBQ Steak

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As for the rest of the week. …

Monday

Andy Baraghani took the concept of spaghetti al limone, a dish you'll find across Campania, in southwest Italy, and ramped it up with cream and fire to make his new recipe for fresh lemon and chile pasta. It's a comforting, rich dish that retains the sunny brightness of the original, with notes of garlic and green chile, perfect for a weeknight.

Article Image

Emma Fishman for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Hadas Smirnoff.

Fresh Lemon and Chile Pasta 

By Andy Baraghani

20 minutes

Makes 4 servings 

Tuesday

Imagine a shrimp boil somehow transmogrified into a macaroni salad. That's Ali Slagle's new recipe for an Old Bay shrimp and macaroni salad exactly, crunchy with celery, slick with buttermilk dressing and studded with peas alongside sweet, buttery shrimp. Would fresh corn work as well as the peas? Yes!

Article Image

David Malosh for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.

Old Bay Shrimp and Macaroni Salad

By Ali Slagle

35 minutes

Makes 8 to 10 servings (12 cups)

Wednesday

Onion and garlic powders are the secret ingredients in Vallery Lomas's lovely recipe for roasted chicken thighs with hot honey and lime, delivering a lovely base line of allium excellence beneath a glaze of butter, hot honey and lime. It's a lovely meal that, if you're lucky, will leave leftovers for outstanding lunch salads.

Seven roasted chicken thighs with hot honey and lime are on an ivory plate with squeezed lime wedges.

Armando Rafael for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Cyd Raftus McDowell.

Roasted Chicken Thighs With Hot Honey and Lime

By Vallery Lomas

35 minutes

Makes 4 servings

Thursday

Hetty Lui McKinnon's new recipe for a dumpling and smashed cucumber salad with peanut sauce is a perfect argument for always having a bag of potstickers in the freezer. Cooked until crisp on the bottom then piled with smashed cucumbers and a luscious drizzle of peanut sauce, they make for a fantastic summer meal in well under an hour. Top with chile crisp and chopped peanuts.

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Bryan Gardner for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Greg Lofts.

Dumpling and Smashed Cucumber Salad With Peanut Sauce 

By Hetty Lui McKinnon

25 minutes

Makes 4 servings

Article Image

Ryan Liebe for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Victoria Granof.

Chile Crisp

By Genevieve Ko

10 minutes

Makes About 1 1/4 cups

Friday

And then you can welcome the weekend with another new one from Ali: a simple grilled salmon that you cook skin-side down until the fish is just barely opaque — or about 120 degrees on your instant-read thermometer. Skip the flip! You'll end up with gloriously crisp skin.

Article Image

Bryan Gardner for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Greg Lofts.

Grilled Salmon

By Ali Slagle

35 minutes

Makes 4 servings

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Now, it's nothing to do with stone fruits or Muscovy duck, but you've got to read Elisabeth Egan's profile in The Times of the children's book author Loren Long, who built a world of joy in his studio and then drew it into a book.

"Wait, is PowerPoint cool now?" That's the question Janay Kingsberry investigated for The Washington Post.

Smoke signal: Our Grilling Challenge with Wirecutter starts next week. Every Tuesday in August, you'll get our best recipes for grilling, along with Wirecutter's recommendations for the best equipment to grill with. (They tell me there'll be some exclusive discounts on editor-approved gear as well.) Make sure you're signed up here!

Finally, some housekeeping: I'm going on vacation! My friends Tejal Rao and Kim Severson will be your hosts for the next couple of weeks. I'll write when I'm back.

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