Friday, March 8, 2024

Gorgeous roast chicken with couscous, dates and buttered almonds

More satisfying weekend cooking: a heavy pot of Boston baked beans, fried eggplant sandwiches.
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Cooking

March 8, 2024

A large Dutch oven holds roast chicken with couscous, dates and buttered almonds. A smaller dish of additional dates is nearby.
Rikki Snyder for The New York Times

Big birds, baked beans and brown bread

Good morning. I'm going hard on the fats and proteins this weekend. That's not only because it's still winter, but also because, for many, next week brings the start of Ramadan and its daily fasts that start at dawn and end with iftar, the sunset meal to break the fast.

We have loads of recipes for Ramadan, including a marvelous roast chicken with couscous, dates and buttered almonds (above), a recipe that Julia Moskin adapted from the food writer Yvonne Maffei. It's a winning combination. (I'm partial, as well, to Yotam Ottolenghi's spiced maqluba with tomatoes and tahini sauce, and to Ifrah F. Ahmed's Somali-style fava bean stew.) Ramadan Mubarak, one and all.

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Yvonne Maffei's Roast Chicken With Couscous, Dates and Buttered Almonds

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More poultry? The farm where I get my Thanksgiving turkey every year also sells ducks, some of them cooked, rotisserie-style, in the shop at the front of their fields. I shred the meat from the carcass, crisp the skin in a skillet and wrap a bit of each in warm flour tortillas with hoisin sauce and sliced scallions for a dopey version of Peking duck that's just as enjoyable as anything you'd get at Decoy or Hutong in Manhattan.

Mark Bittman's recipe for an easy roast duck can give you similar results this weekend, or you can go whole hog (bird) with Kay Chun's recipe for Peking duck with honey and five-spice glaze instead. I urge you to do so because most folks don't eat duck often. (Americans consume just .34 pounds of duck each year, according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture.) And they ought to. Duck's delicious.

This would be a good weekend, as well, to make Boston baked beans according to the chef Jasper White's instruction, or following the chef Steve Johnson's lead or by attending the guidance of James Beard. To go with, try this sneakily savory Boston brown bread made with doenjang, ideally steam-baked in a can.

And how about a Dutch baby for breakfast tomorrow, with bacon on the side and slices of apple cooked in the bacon fat, everything drizzled with maple syrup or served with a compote of strawberry jam and butter? How about a fried eggplant sandwich for lunch, in the style of Frankies Spuntino in Brooklyn? How about a poppy seed tea cake for afterward, in advance of a nap?

There are many thousands more recipes waiting for you on New York Times Cooking. You do, yes, need a subscription to read them. Subscriptions support our work and allow it to continue. If you haven't done so already, would you please consider subscribing today? Thanks.

Write for help if you find yourself crosswise with our technology. It happens. We're at cookingcare@nytimes.com and someone will get back to you. Or if you'd like to say hello or bark about something that annoys you, you can write to me. I'm at foodeditor@nytimes.com. I can't respond to every letter. But I read every one I get.

Now, it's nothing to do with tofu skins or dicing onions, but you should absolutely read Susan Dominus's profile of Kate Winslet in The New York Times Magazine, with beautiful photography from Jack Davison.

Also in The Times, our Dwight Garner put me on to the debut novelist Rita Bullwinkel, whose book "Headshot," he says, "is so enveloping to read that you feel, at times, that you are writing it in your own mind."

Here's Ted Conover, in Outside magazine, with the account of a mother with no backcountry experience taking her sister and young son to live off the grid on a mountain during a Colorado winter.

Finally, Jon Pareles, in The Playlist, alerted me to an excellent new track from the Tuareg guitarist Mdou Moctar, "Funeral for Justice." Play that loud and I'll see you on Sunday.

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A Dutch oven holds fuul, or Somali-style fava bean stew, with a wooden spoon for serving.

David Malosh for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.

Fuul (Somali-Style Fava Bean Stew)

By Ifrah F. Ahmed

30 minutes

Makes 4 servings

Article Image

Romulo Yanes for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Vivian Lui.

Peking Duck With Honey and Five-Spice Glaze

By Kay Chun

2 hours, plus drying

Makes 4 servings

Article Image

Rikki Snyder for The New York Times

Boston Baked Beans

Recipe from Jasper White

Adapted by Pete Wells

3 to 4 hours, plus overnight soaking of beans

Makes 8 to 10 servings

An overhead shot of a Dutch baby pancake in a cast-iron skillet. A small bowl of berries and an open jar of jam are nearby, as is a small pink plate.

Linda Xiao for The New York Times. Food Stylist; Hadas Smirnoff. Prop Stylist: Megan Hedgepeth.

Dutch Baby

By Florence Fabricant

40 minutes

Makes 3 to 4 servings

Article Image

Linda Xiao for The New York Times. Food stylist: Maggie Ruggiero. Prop stylist: Sophia Pappas.

Poppy Seed Tea Cake

By Dorie Greenspan

1½ hours, plus cooling

Makes 10 servings

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Tanya Sichynsky shares the most delicious vegetarian recipes for weeknight cooking, packed lunches and dinner parties.

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Tanya Sichynsky shares the most delicious vegetarian recipes for weeknight cooking, packed lunches and dinner parties.

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