Saturday, August 17, 2024

Rick Martínez’s tostadas are a treat

"This was one of the most delicious recipes we've ever made."
Cooking

August 17, 2024

Tostadas topped with beans, chorizo, shredded lettuce, sliced avocado, cheese and chopped cilantro are shown in close-up on a cutting board.
Rick Martínez's tostadas. Christopher Testani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.

Tostadas, roast chicken and more wonderful things to cook

By Mia Leimkuhler

The other day my pal Eric Kim asked me how I unwind after work. A bike ride, knitting, maybe a yoga class, I replied. A glass of wine for me, a squeaky toy for the dog. I didn't say what immediately came to mind because it felt too goody-two-shoes, and that is: cooking.

I've started paying attention to all the little things I enjoy about preparing a meal, how far they feel from demanding screens and unanswered emails. The soft texture and faded color of my blue apron, run through the wash a billion times. The decisive, clean cut of a heavy knife through an onion. How the dog (his name's Reggie) knows the sound and the aroma emanating from the rice cooker and comes running. After a long day of doing things for other people, it feels good to have all these nice moments that belong just to me.

On weekends I lean into this as much as I can, picking out recipes that maybe take a little more time or require a trip to a different grocery store. If I were making Rick Martínez's tostadas on a weeknight, I'd probably snag some prepared tostadas and use sour cream instead of crema since that's what my corner store has. But it's Saturday, which means I can take an easy stroll to the Latin grocer for fresh corn tortillas, queso fresco and crema. And while I fry the tortillas, maybe I'll get a batch of frijoles de olla going, to use on my tostadas today and for nachos or for Ali Slagle's quick vegetarian enchiladas during the week.

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Tostadas

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Weeknights are for chicken pieces in a skillet or sheet pan; weekends are for roasting whole chickens. Ali's caramelized lemon chicken caught my eye for its star ingredient: lemon curd. "The sugars in the curd help the skin caramelize to a deep mahogany, while the curd's fat and moisture keep the meat juicy," Ali writes. "Spread it on chicken and each bite gets perfumed with sunny lemon." Sold.

I'm lucky enough to have a fishmonger in my neighborhood, and it feels like the height of luxury to walk a few blocks and bring home fresh fish for that night's dinner. (If I really want to go full Mrs. Dalloway, I'll grab flowers and bread from the bakery down the street, too.) Christian Reynoso's vivid turmeric-ginger salmon, a dish inspired by cha ca la Vong, would be wonderful paired with Ham El-Waylly's toasted garlic rice, for a meal that packs a lot of aromatic, garlicky punch.

There's something oddly therapeutic about a chopped salad — the pleasing sound of crunchy vegetables and lettuces being diced, the fulfillment of combining all these different fresh, canned and jarred elements into one cohesive dish. (Also: the "look at me!" satisfaction of eating a salad.) Lidey Heuck's chopped salad with chickpeas, feta and avocado is exactly the sort of Sunday reset I want after a busy, social Saturday.

I'll end with this strawberry layer cake, an impressive, proudly pink production from Lisa Donovan. It'd be a delightful way to celebrate an August birthday, or just the fact that it's still summer and we have strawberries and you can make a cake.

IN THIS NEWSLETTER

Article Image

Armando Rafael for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Mariana Velásquez. Prop Stylist: Paige Hicks.

Frijoles de Olla (Homestyle Black Beans)

By Rick A. Martínez

2 hours 35 minutes

Makes 3 quarts

Article Image

David Malosh for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.

Vegetarian Bean and Cheese Enchiladas

By Ali Slagle

40 minutes

Makes 4 servings

Article Image

Joel Goldberg for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Barrett Washburne.

Caramelized Lemon Chicken

By Ali Slagle

1 hour 10 minutes

Makes 4 servings

Article Image

David Malosh for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.

Turmeric-Ginger Salmon

By Christian Reynoso

About 1 hour

Makes 2 servings

Article Image

Rachel Vanni for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Barrett Washburne.

Toasted Garlic Rice  

By Ham El-Waylly

50 minutes

Makes 4 to 6 servings

Article Image

Linda Xiao for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Monica Pierini.

Chopped Salad With Chickpeas, Feta and Avocado

By Lidey Heuck

30 minutes

Makes 4 to 6 servings

Article Image

Julia Gartland for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Samantha Seneviratne.

Strawberry Layer Cake

By Lisa Donovan

2 hours 40 minutes

Makes 12 servings (one 9-inch layer cake)

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Tanya Sichynsky shares the most delicious vegetarian recipes for weeknight cooking, packed lunches and dinner parties.

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Tanya Sichynsky shares the most delicious vegetarian recipes for weeknight cooking, packed lunches and dinner parties.

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