It’s shrimp weather

Salt and pepper shrimp rolls, shrimp burgers, grilled shrimp, BBQ shrimp, shrimp Louie.

View in browser|nytimes.com July 12, 2024 Kay Chun's salt and pepper shrimp rolls. David Malosh for The New York Times What to cook this weekend: shrimp By Sam Sifton Good morning. The air's been thick of late where I live, heavy with moisture, as if the whole state's been covered with blankets soaked in hot water. It's giving Houston, as my kids would phrase it, or South Louisiana. This inspires a kind of Gulf Coast blues. The humidity approaches liquidity. It threatens to boil. It's shrimp weather, in other words. This time of year I like them simply grilled, or fried for exemplary salt and pepper shrimp rolls (above). They're terrific folded into tacos or chopped into burgers. Alison Roman has an excellent recipe for shrimp Louie, a take on the classic crabmeat salad. You could consider barbecue shrimp to recall New Orleans, where oppressive, muggy-moist heat is summer's calling card. Featured Recipe Salt and Pepper Shrimp Rolls View Recipe → Or you could make summer rolls, no recipe required. All you need is shrimp, cucumber, carrot, jalapeño, mint, cilantro, basil, vermicelli noodles and some rice-paper wrappers, often packaged as "spring roll wrappers." Shred the carrot and slice the cukes into batons. Coin the jalapeño and discard the seeds (or not!). Cook the vermicelli and shock it in cold water. Poach the shrimp gently, then give them the same treatment you gave the noodles before peeling and tailing. Pick the leaves off the herbs and arrange them prettily on a platter, next to the vermicelli, next to the vegetables, next to the shrimp. To assemble the rolls, which you could do ahead of time or, more happily and communally, at the table, simply run a rice-paper wrapper through a shallow bowl of warm water so that it turns clear and floppy, like a sheet of plastic film, then fill it with noodles, the vegetables, herbs and a couple of shrimp, and wrap everything up like a cigar or a burrito. Serve with peanut sauce or — and, in my case — nước chấm. I like jerk chicken in the heat, as well, and egg curry, too. I like tomato salad on a roll. I like an ice-cold schav and gazpacho. I like a porchetta on the grill. For dessert, regardless: no-churn salted-caramel ice cream. My aim is simply to accept the realities of the season and to cook and eat within them, as millions have done before. There are many thousands more recipes to consider, if none of those appeal, on New York Times Cooking. Yes, to answer a question I get quite a lot, you do need a subscription to read them. Subscriptions support our work and allow it to continue. Please, if you haven't already, would you consider subscribing today? Thank you. We're on overwatch duty, should you run into problems with our technology. Just write us for help. We're at cookingcare@nytimes.com. Someone will get back to you. Or, if you'd like to say hello or register a complaint, you can write to me: foodeditor@nytimes.com. I can't respond to every letter. But I do read every one I get. Now, it's nothing to do with tempering chocolate or skinning an eel, but if you happen to be on Long Island this evening, I'll be talking with Taffy Brodesser-Akner at BookHampton in East Hampton. The subject: her new novel, "Long Island Compromise," which Sloane Crosley raved about in The New York Times Book Review. Also on the local front, you should read Kevin Baker's latest, "The New York Game: Baseball and the Rise of a New City," which is about baseball, yes, but really so much more. Susan Orlean on Nicolas Cage, in The New Yorker? Yes, please. Finally, today would have been Christine McVie's 81st birthday. The hitmaker for Fleetwood Mac died in 2022. Here she is singing "You Make Loving Fun," live in 1976. Don't break the spell. I'll see you on Sunday. IN THIS NEWSLETTER Christopher Testani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews. Simplest Grilled Shrimp By Sam Sifton 20 minutes Makes 4 servings Christopher Testani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews. Jerk Chicken By Julia Moskin About 1 1/2 hours, plus at least 12 hours' marinating Makes 8 servings Christopher Testani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews. Prop Stylist: Paige Hicks. Egg Curry By Tejal Rao 1 hour Makes 4 servings Gentl and Hyers for The New York Times. Food stylist: Maggie Ruggiero. Prop stylist: Rebecca Bartoshesky. Ice-Cold Schav By Gabrielle Hamilton 45 minutes Makes 4 servings Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times Outdoor Porchetta By Julia Moskin About 5 hours Makes 15 to 20 servings Michael Graydon & Nikole Herriott for The New York Times. Prop Stylist: Kalen Kaminski. New Shrimp Louie (Poached Shrimp Salad) By Alison Roman 30 minutes Makes 4 servings Linda Xiao for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Hadas Smirnoff. No-Churn Salted Caramel Ice Cream By Melissa Clark 3 1/2 hours Makes 1 1/2 pints Sign up for the Five Weeknight Dishes newsletter Fresh dinner ideas for busy people who want something great to eat, with NYT Cooking recipes sent to you weekly. Get it in your inbox Sign up for The Veggie newsletter Tanya Sichynsky shares the most delicious vegetarian recipes for weeknight cooking, packed lunches and dinner parties. Get it in your inbox Need help? Review our newsletter help page or contact us for assistance. 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