Exquisite esquites
If I were mayor of Picnictown, every picnic would have the following: a blanket, a 1:1 dog-to-human ratio and esquites. The blanket's there because grass is itchy no matter what the most outdoorsy person in the group says; the dogs because dogs are great. The esquites are essential because my favorite outdoor corn is elotes, but they don't travel nearly as well as esquites. (The laws of Picnictown consider how easy it is to carry your picnic things on public transportation.) This is barely a compromise, though, because Kay Chun's esquites capture all the beloved and balanced elements of elotes: sweet summer corn, tangy lime, creamy cotija (and crema), spicy ancho chile. The smoky flavor you get from grilled corn is here, too, as the kernels are charred in a hot skillet until browned and caramelized. Perhaps the most enticing part of the recipe is this note from Kay: "Leftovers transform quickly into a great pasta salad the next day; simply toss with cooked pasta and olive oil." Picnictown loves a resourceful pasta salad. Featured Recipe EsquitesMore picnic decrees, because it's the first day of summer! Make Zainab Shah's sheet-pan chicken tikka thighs ahead of time, and then toss some roti or naan in your tote bag for effortless but extremely delicious sandwiches. Ali Slagle's green bean salad with dill pickles and feta is perfect all by itself, but if someone else wanted to bring a container of cooked barley or farro, that would be a really nice collaborative grain bowl picnic moment. (For even more lovely, easy picnic ideas that travel well, check out this recipe collection.) Every June, the summer produce flows into and overwhelms my corner grocery store, and every June I am positively giddy about it. Right now the shelves are buckling from so many cherry tomatoes, and I'm doing my part with salad e-shirazi, basil and tomato fried rice and salmon and tomatoes in foil, a five-star, five-ingredient dinner from Mark Bittman. I am trying to be more adventurous with my vegetables, branching out and bringing home goodies I don't usually cook. I've never really loved bitter melon (I'm not alone), but I do like bitter things — extra dark chocolate, dandelion greens, Campari. So I'm going to try this stir-fried bitter melon with eggs, a recipe from Chutatip Suntaranon (known as Nok) adapted by Cathy Erway. The creamy scrambled eggs, salty soy sauce and molasses-y brown sugar will mellow out the harshest edges of the bitter melon. And I trust Nok — I've had the pleasure of dining at Kalaya, Nok's restaurant in Philadelphia, and Nok never misses. Lastly: It's hot out there, and I'd like to give you an excuse to stand in front of the open refrigerator after a long afternoon in Picnictown. Here's Lisa Donovan's new recipe for buttermilk tres leches cake, which is best served extremely chilled, straight from the pan. I interpret this as spooning giant mouthfuls of cold, creamy cake into my mouth while bending into the fridge, but if you'd like to use plates and forks and a table, by all means.
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Thursday, June 20, 2024
Esquites, because elotes don’t travel as well
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