Wednesday, September 11, 2024

Restaurant-fancy pasta for a worn-out Wednesday

Andy Baraghani's crispy artichoke pasta is both doable and delicious.
Cooking

September 11, 2024

A white plate holds crispy artichoke pasta.
Andy Baraghani's crispy artichoke pasta. Emma Fishman for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Hadas Smirnoff.

Will fry for artichokes

Of all the foods I'll willingly heat up a pot of oil for, fried artichokes are at the top of my list. From that first kiss of sizzling oil, the petals crisp, the heart softens and the flavors concentrate, becoming even sweeter and more intense. Steamed artichoke leaves dunked in butter are tidy and wonderful, but the fried version is actually worth wiping down a stove after.

A fried artichoke doesn't need much to become dinner, but why not put it on some pasta? Andy Baraghani's minimalist crispy artichoke pasta starts with canned thistles to keep the prep time doable, then needs nothing more than a sprinkling of Parmesan, some garlic and red pepper flakes to round it out. It's a special meal that is also weeknight-quick and pantry-friendly.

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Crispy Artichoke Pasta

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The surprise collaboration between fennel and apples raises Colu Henry's sheet-pan chicken way above the average weeknight meal. But it comes together so easily — slice up an apple, a fennel bulb and an onion, then use them as a bed for chicken thighs (or bone-in breasts). The chicken exudes its savory juices as it roasts, coating the mix in schmaltzy goodness. Serve it with a bitter green salad flecked with blue cheese and walnuts like Colu suggests, or maybe try a simple platter of air-fried asparagus. Either make this an exceptional weeknight family meal or a small September dinner for friends.

Another dish that's ready for company but not fussy is Lidey Heuck's Italian wedding soup. The mix of meatballs and vegetables "married" with pasta is deservedly enduring, a classic, warming soup that makes a fragrant, light meal on its own. Or serve it before roast chicken or roasted fish for something festive and sustaining.

In keeping with the easy, festive weeknight vibe, Yewande Komolafe's plantains with jammy tomatoes and eggs is a meatless, colorful option with deep flavors, all made in one pan. Based on tomato eggs, a hearty dish popular in Lagos, Nigeria, it's filled with supple plantains that just hold their shape after they're simmered with tomatoes, roasted peppers, chiles and eggs. Or skip the eggs and substitute soft tofu for a vegan version with a plush, pillowy texture.

For a dessert that's as worthy of company as a cozy night in, how about a sophisticated take on blondies? Nargisse Benkabbou dresses up the humble butterscotch squares with a gilding of amlou, a Nutella-like spread of almonds, honey and argan oil that's popular in Morocco. Her amlou blondies work as a deluxe dessert or a midafternoon treat imbued with North African finesse.

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A Dutch oven holds kale soup with potatoes and sausage with two servings ladled out into small burgundy bowls.
Armando Rafael for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews. Prop Stylist: Paige Hicks.

For this week's one-pot recipe, I'm leaning in to the crisp, cool nights we've been having here in New York City with a harbinger of early fall, kale soup with potatoes and sausage. If it's not yet crisp and cool where you are, bookmark the recipe so it's there when you need it. It'll warm you right up.

IN THIS NEWSLETTER

A sheet pan holds chicken with apple, fennel and onion.

Con Poulos for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.

Sheet-Pan Chicken With Apple, Fennel and Onion

By Colu Henry

40 minutes

Makes 4 to 6 servings

Article Image

Christopher Testani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.

Easy Air-Fryer Asparagus

By Tara Holland

10 minutes

Makes 2 to 4 servings

Article Image

Christopher Testani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Cyd Raftus McDowell.

Italian Wedding Soup

By Lidey Heuck

1 hour and 15 minutes

Makes 6 to 8 servings

A skillet holds plantains with jammy tomatoes and eggs, some of which has been scooped onto a small white plate and set with a fork.

Linda Xiao for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Hadas Smirnoff.

Plantains With Jammy Tomatoes and Eggs

By Yewande Komolafe

30 minutes

Makes 4 servings

Article Image

Mark Weinberg for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Monica Pierini.

Amlou Blondies

By Nargisse Benkabbou

About 1 hour

Makes 9 blondies 

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Tanya Sichynsky shares the most delicious vegetarian recipes for weeknight cooking, packed lunches and dinner parties.

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Tanya Sichynsky shares the most delicious vegetarian recipes for weeknight cooking, packed lunches and dinner parties.

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