A flexible pasta that makes the most of your CSA box

My zucchini pasta with tuna and chile paste is fast, flavorful and very versatile.

View in browser|nytimes.com July 24, 2024 Melissa Clark's zucchini pasta with tuna and chile paste. Rachel Vanni for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Barrett Washburne. A pantry pasta that makes the most of summer By Melissa Clark Pantry pastas just hit different in summer, when my counter is crowded with the farmers' market tomatoes I overbought, my CSA box can barely hold its harvest of zucchini and corn, and the mint and basil on my deck are giving Audrey II from "Little Shop of Horrors." Any combination of these will imbue a bowl full of, say, midnight pasta with an ineffable summery vibe — colorful, bright and fresh, but still weeknight easy. This is exactly what I was looking for when developing my recipe for zucchini pasta with tuna and chile paste. Adding zucchini to a classic pasta with canned tuna gives the pasta lightness as well as a softer and juicier texture. And instead of the crushed red pepper flakes you'd usually see in a dish like this, I went for dollops of chile paste, which bring acidity as well as heat. Use any kind of chile paste you like: Gochujang, harissa, aji amarillo, sambal oelek and sriracha all work beautifully, each lending their unique character to the mix. Already used up your CSA zucchini making zucchini bread? Swap in other vegetables like eggplant, peppers, greens or cherry tomatoes. No tuna left in the cupboard? Try sardines, mackerel or canned salmon. The beauty of the pantry meal is its versatility. Featured Recipe Zucchini Pasta With Tuna and Chile Paste View Recipe → Speaking of oceanic kitchen staples, one of the most fished-for things in my pantry these days is fish sauce. I've taken to drizzling the magic elixir on nearly everything, marveling each time how, once its brief funk dissipates, it selflessly boosts all the flavors around it. The proof is in Eric Kim's roasted chicken with fish-sauce butter. The fish sauce adds saline, umami depth to a rich brown sugar-sweetened sauce for the crispy-skinned chicken thighs. To catch every drop of the golden drippings, Eric throws chunks of crusty bread in the bottom of the pan, which bake into schmaltzy croutons as the chicken cooks. Pair it with a juicy summer salad, like Alexa Weibel's tangy, spicy watermelon salad with pineapple and lime for a complex, hot weather meal that hits all the right, cooling notes. Let's take another spin around the pantry, but this time zeroing in on canned beans. You might think Kay Chun's chickpea salad sandwich takes its cue from tuna salad. But the chickpeas mashed up in a pungent lemon-tahini dressing are more like a chunky, hearty hummus. Celery and scallions add crunch and sweetness, while the alfalfa sprouts, tomatoes and avocado bring other contrasting textures and flavors to the mix. Kay adds a little Parmesan for umami notes, but feel free to leave it out or substitute nutritional yeast for a vegan-friendly meal. Do meatballs count as a pantry recipe? I always keep some ground meat in the freezer for meatball night, so I say they do. Lidey Heuck's Greek meatballs call for a mix of beef and either lamb or pork, but I think turkey or chicken would work great if that's what you've got. To keep the meatballs nice and moist, Lidey mixes in the pulp of a grated tomato and some breadcrumbs, and then infuses the meat with herbs, both fresh and dried — fresh mint and parsley for verve, dried oregano for earthy intensity. Sizzle these in a little olive oil and they'll emerge golden, juicy and full of herby, brawny flavor. For a comforting and creamy dessert, I have to ask, got mastic? Sweet milk puddings are a beloved treat across many cultures, and for his traditional mouhalabieh (adapted by Ligaya Mishan), the French Palestinian chef Fadi Kattan grinds fragrant mastic to a powder before simmering it into a speedy, cornstarch-thickened custard. You can find this crystalline tree resin in specialty spice shops and online, and it's well worth seeking out for its inimitable woody, freshening perfume. The proof is in the pudding! To get these recipes — along with thousands upon thousands more — you'll want to subscribe to New York Times Cooking. If you meet a technical issue, email the smart people at cookingcare@nytimes.com for help. And I'm at hellomelissa@nytimes.com if you want to say hi. Armando Rafael for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Cyd Raftus McDowell. Do the phrases "custardy tofu," "fluffy rice" and "spicy sauce" make your stomach growl? If so, don't sleep on Ali Slagle's one-pot tofu and broccoli rice, spiked with peanut butter, chile crisp and soy sauce. Let that growling be your call to action. IN THIS NEWSLETTER Romulo Yanes for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Vivian Lui. Midnight Pasta With Garlic, Anchovy, Capers and Red Pepper By David Tanis 15 to 20 minutes Makes 2 servings. Julia Gartland for The New York Times Olive Oil Zucchini Bread By Melissa Clark 1 1/2 hours Makes One 8-inch loaf Christopher Simpson for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews Roasted Chicken With Fish-Sauce Butter By Eric Kim 45 minutes Makes 4 servings Christopher Testani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Barrett Washburne. Spicy Watermelon Salad With Pineapple and Lime By Alexa Weibel 15 minutes Makes 6 to 8 servings David Malosh for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews. Chickpea Salad Sandwich By Kay Chun  10 minutes   Makes 4 servings  Christopher Testani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews. Greek Meatballs  By Lidey Heuck 1 1/4 hours  Makes About 30 meatballs (4 to 6 servings) Linda Xiao for The New York Times. Food stylist: Maggie Ruggiero. Prop Stylist: Sophia Eleni Pappas. Mouhalabieh (Milk Pudding) Recipe from Fadi Kattan Adapted by Ligaya Mishan 3 ¼ hours Makes 6 to 8 servings Sign up for the Five Weeknight Dishes newsletter Fresh dinner ideas for busy people who want something great to eat, with NYT Cooking recipes sent to you weekly. Get it in your inbox Sign up for The Veggie newsletter Tanya Sichynsky shares the most delicious vegetarian recipes for weeknight cooking, packed lunches and dinner parties. Get it in your inbox Need help? Review our newsletter help page or contact us for assistance. You received this email because you signed up for Cooking from The New York Times. To stop receiving Cooking, unsubscribe. To opt out of other promotional emails from The Times, including those regarding The Athletic, manage your email settings. 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