Monday, May 27, 2024

“Delicious, easy, healthy and affordable”

These one-pot chicken meatballs with greens are already proving to be a weeknight winner.
Cooking

May 27, 2024

A large white bowl holds chicken meatballs with rainbow chard and lemon slices.
Johnny Miller for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Vivian Lui.

Clever, and kaleidoscopic, chicken meatballs with rainbow chard

My family and I have just returned from a weekend in rural Pennsylvania, where we spend every Memorial Day weekend hanging out with good friends, eating enormous platters of grilled meat and veggies, and enjoying the mixed choir of tree frogs and bullfrogs that populate the lake. More reliably than any calendar, that throaty, flirty chorus announces that summer is finally (if unofficially) here.

Back in Brooklyn, there's a whole other chorale going on: bass-crazy car speakers, anxious sirens, laughter from the neighbor kids as they cover their stoops in chalk art. Hark, summer has arrived here, too!

All of this is nature's cue to shift into a lighter and more laid-back mode of cooking. Maybe the tomatoes haven't quite peaked yet, but the farmers' market already boasts greens in profusion, notably the piles of rainbow chard with their red and yellow stems. I'm excited to put some to good use in Yasmin Fahr's one-pot chicken meatballs with greens.

Her recipe is fiendishly clever. After browning the meatballs, she smothers them under a mound of greens seasoned with sliced lemons and cumin, and then covers the pot to let it steam. The greens wilt, the meatballs cook through and the lemons release their juice into the savory pan drippings. It's a colorful, fuss-free meal to rock us into the season.

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One-Pot Chicken Meatballs With Greens

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Another Yasmin creation I can't wait to make this week is her garlic shrimp with crispy chickpeas, an ebullient mash-up of shrimp scampi and gambas al ajillo, liberally seasoned with smoked paprika. The chickpeas are sizzled in a hot skillet until crunchy, and then doused in wine and simmered until tender. Shrimp are folded in along with lemon and parsley for zip and freshness. Be sure to cook this with a wine you'd want to drink with your meal — it really does make a difference!

We also have a new meatless recipe from Hetty "Tofu Whisperer" Lui McKinnon: her lemongrass tofu with broccoli. This speedy dish gets its intense flavor from the chopped lemongrass used in a marinade that doubles as a pan sauce. Marinate the tofu the day before if you're planning ahead, but the dish would also work perfectly with a 10-minute soak. Seared broccoli florets and onion slices add texture, vegetable heft and a delightfully smoky char.

Another tantalizing option — this time starring the ever charismatic duo of chicken and rice — is Kay Chun's arroz con pollo verde. It's a Peruvian dish made with an emerald green cilantro purée spiked with jarred aji amarillo (a hot yellow pepper paste). A can of soft, pillowy hominy stirred into the rice mix adds an earthy flavor and textural contrast.

Or maybe you'd like to dive right into the deep end of summer with a no-cook recipe. Dan Pelosi has your hot-weather remedy, a marinated antipasto salad made from your favorite salty snacks. It's got olives, salami, provolone cheese and canned artichoke hearts, all anchored in a tangy butter bean and cherry tomato salad. Serve it with crusty bread and put it on repeat for an easygoing meal that will get you through the whole season.

To me, the perfect summer dessert has loads of warm, bubbling fruit that I can top with scoops of ice cream that melt into a lush and creamy sauce. Crisps are the Platonic ideal of this, particularly Yossy Arefi's gorgeous, ruby-hued rhubarb crisp with its nubby brown butter topping.

And as always, you'll want to subscribe to access all these smart recipes and scads more (to the tune of tens of thousands more). If you need any technical help, the sharp folks at cookingcare@nytimes.com are there for you. And I'm at hellomelissa@nytimes.com if you want to say hi.

That's all for now. See you on Wednesday.

IN THIS NEWSLETTER

Article Image

Johnny Miller for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Vivian Lui.

Garlic Shrimp With Crisped Chickpeas 

By Yasmin Fahr

25 minutes

Makes 4 servings

Article Image

Johnny Miller for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Vivian Lui.

Lemongrass Tofu and Broccoli

By Hetty Lui McKinnon

25 minutes

Makes 4 servings

Two white plates are photographed from overhead. They hold servings of rice, chicken, sliced red onions and red peppers.

David Malosh for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.

Arroz con Pollo Verde 

By Kay Chun

45 minutes

Makes 4 servings

Article Image

Ryan Liebe for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Maggie Ruggiero.

Antipasto Salad

By Dan Pelosi

30 minutes, plus at least 1 hour's chilling

Makes 2 to 4 servings 

An overhead image of a baking dish filled with chunks of rhubarb and topped with a crisp, browned sweet topping. To the left is a bowl with a serving, topped with ice cream.

Dane Tashima for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Barrett Washburne.

Browned-Butter Rhubarb Crisp

By Yossy Arefi

1 hour 20 minutes

Makes 8 servings

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