Sunday, August 7, 2022

What to Cook: Fried rice with tomatoes, pork meatballs and snapper escovitch

Make a plan for fish sticks with peas, summer pasta and more recipes.

What to Cook This Week

Good morning. I had this idea that I was going to cook fish sticks with peas (above), on account of how excellent the recipe is. It retains the look and feel of a classic meal of my childhood, while allowing for adult tastes: turmeric in the fish batter for warmth and hue; mint, lemon zest and red pepper flakes in the peas for pop. (Make this outstanding tartar sauce to go with it.)

But the fishmonger had closed for the day. I had no backup plan. I returned to my kitchen to stare into the fridge and wait for a muse to alight on my shoulder.

I had some boneless, skinless chicken thighs. Heavy cream. Butter. And, in the back of the liquor cabinet, a dusty bottle of sherry. I thought: All right. Here's a no-recipe recipe for freestyle chicken à la king.

Cube the chicken and sauté it in neutral oil with a healthy spray of salt and black pepper. You're looking to get just a bit of crust on the meat, some coloration. It should be barely cooked through. Dump that in a bowl and set it aside.

Wipe out the pan and pour in about half a cup of sherry. Let it reduce by half, then add a cup of cream and a half cup of chicken broth. (For this application, I make that with Chinese "chicken powder," which is like dry bouillon and monosodium glutamate.) Cook that over fairly high heat, stirring often, until it reduces by half. Slide the chicken into the sauce to heat through, and serve over buttered toast.

As for the rest of the week …

Monday

This lovely summer pasta with zucchini, ricotta and basil tastes pretty good with supermarket ricotta. But if you can lay in some seriously fluffy Italian artisanal cheese shop ricotta? Holy cats!

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Tuesday

Here's a recipe for snapper escovitch, developed by Millie Peartree. It's for whole fish but you can make it with fillets and, if you do, you can follow Millie's advice and serve them as sandwiches, with mayonnaise cut with lime juice and perfumed with cilantro.

Wednesday

It's always good to have a container of frozen cooked rice in the freezer, so you can make this exceptional fried rice with tomatoes that cook down and coat the grains, which get a kick from Thai chiles and a camphor sweetness from basil.

Thursday

Friday

And then you can roll into the weekend with a feast from David Tanis: a tomato salad with grilled eggplant and flatbread to start, followed by slow-cooked lamb shoulder with green beans and a summer fruit compote for dessert.

Thousands more ideas for what to cook this week are waiting for you on New York Times Cooking. (Find us on TikTok, Instagram and YouTube while you're at it.) It's true that you need a subscription to access the recipes. If you haven't taken one out yet, would you consider subscribing today? Subscriptions support our work. Thanks.

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Now, it's nothing to do with black tea or white Cheddar, but do read this accounting of the world's first solo round-the-world sailboat race in 1968, by Stewart Brand in Works in Progress. In sailboats as in so much, maintenance is everything.

Here's a really lovely interview Sam Dean of The Los Angeles Times had recently with Mike Davis, the city's "prophet of doom."

It's been a week and I can't stop thinking about the use of language in Wesley Morris's review of the new Beyoncé album in The Times.

Finally, I'm kind of digging this guy Aaron Young, the "Key West Waterman," who posts on YouTube about his adventures foraging in shallow water in South Florida. I'd steam those lobster tails, though. I'll be back on Monday.

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