Sunday, November 10, 2024

“This is the best of the best.”

Marcella Hazan's Bolognese sauce, tomato-rich and smoothed with milk, remains a reader favorite.
Cooking

November 10, 2024

A white Dutch oven holds Bolognese sauce with a wooden spoon.
Marcella Hazan's Bolognese sauce. Adapted by The New York Times. Christopher Testani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.

Simple, precise and balanced

Good morning. When Marcella Hazan, the self-taught Italian cook who showed Americans a new way to cook Italian food, died in 2013, my colleagues on the Food desk of The Times published what we refer to in the office as a "call-out" — a request to readers that they share their answers to a particular question. In this case, we wanted to know which of Hazan's recipes was their favorite.

The answers were delightful, a feast of deliciousness. Many referenced her Bolognese sauce (above), a meaty, tomato-rich ragù that's fragrant with soffrito, nutmeg and white wine and smoothed with milk. You can use it to dress tagliatelle, or in a lasagna. Either way, it makes for one of my favorite autumn meals, complex and comforting, a model of Hazan's best cooking: simple, precise and balanced.

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Marcella Hazan's Bolognese Sauce

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And that's my Sunday plan! As for the rest of the week. …

Monday

Melissa Clark's recipe for mustard chicken with bread crumbs is a sophisticated take on a childhood favorite. She coats chicken thighs in a mixture of mustard and Worcestershire sauce that's been spiked with garlic, lemon zest and red-pepper flakes, then tops them with panko and roasts them until juicy-crisp. Serve with lemon wedges, smashed potatoes and a green salad. So good.

A baking sheet topped with crispy chicken breasts. They are coated in panko bread crumbs.

Bobbi Lin for The New York Times.Food Stylist: Maggie Ruggiero.

Crispy Mustard Chicken With Bread Crumbs

By Melissa Clark

40 to 50 minutes

Makes 4 to 6 servings

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Jospeph De Leo for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Monica Pierini.

Crisp Smashed Potatoes With Fried Onions and Parsley 

By Alison Roman

45 minutes

Makes 4 servings

Tuesday

Eric Kim uses orzo in place of spaghetti in his recipe for a weeknight carbonara, which delivers a velvety texture reminiscent of risotto. I follow his lead and add some diced shallot to the guanciale fat before I add the orzo, along with a splash of white wine. I like that for me.

A plate full of pasta with cheese and dried tomatoes.

Linda Xiao for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Barrett Washburne.

Orzotto Alla Carbonara

By Eric Kim

35 minutes

Makes 2 to 4 servings

Wednesday

We're coming into the time of year when I like to break out my recipe for baked potatoes and think about what I might use to top them. Spinach-artichoke dip would be awesome. So would crab meat, sliced jalapeños and a scattering of mint. Midweek, though, I'm thinking sour cream, bacon, Cheddar and chopped scallions.

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Craig Lee for The New York Times

Baked Potatoes

By Sam Sifton

1 hour

Makes 4 servings

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Michael Kraus for The New York Times

Spinach Artichoke Dip

By Alison Roman

25 minutes

Makes 2 to 3 cups

Thursday

Here's a mushroom ragù pasta recipe from Alexa Weibel that demonstrates her ability to make big flavors bigger and more vibrant than you might imagine possible on a weeknight. There's dried porcini powder in there in addition to fresh mushrooms, which cubes the umami of the dish, and both heavy cream and Marsala wine to sweeten the flavors of the forest floor. Share that with someone special, please.

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Linda Xiao for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Barrett Washburne.

Mushroom Ragù Pasta

By Alexa Weibel

30 minutes

Makes 4 servings

Friday

And then you can head into the weekend with a Thanksgiving rehearsal meal: a caramelized onion, cranberry and rosemary tachin from Andy Baraghani. It's an adaptation of a Persian rice dish often layered with chicken and barberries that incorporates classic flavors of the American holiday to make a striking, buttery dish that could sit beside a turkey — or stand on its own.

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David Malosh for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.

Caramelized Onion, Cranberry and Rosemary Tahchin 

By Andy Baraghani

1 hour 50 minutes

Makes 6 to 8 servings

There are thousands and thousands more recipes to cook this week waiting for you on New York Times Cooking. Go take a look, and save the recipes you want to cook. Then cook them!

Write to us at cookingcare@nytimes.com if you have questions about your account. Someone will get back to you. And write to me if you are aggrieved about anything, or wish to pay someone a compliment. I'm at foodeditor@nytimes.com. I can't respond to every letter. But I do read every one I get.

Now, it's nothing to do with quail or kumquats, but Geoff Edgers has a fascinating piece in The Washington Post on Elvis Costello, T Bone Burnett and the making of Costello's 1986 reinvention, "King of America."

Here's a lovely new poem by Emily Berry in The New York Review of Books, "The Room."

For Freeskier Magazine, Jordan Grant-Krenz took a deep dive into NOAA's winter forecast, concentrating on temperature and precipitation. TL;DR: It's probably going to be a good winter for the Pacific Northwest and in, like, Michigan. Fingers crossed for New England.

Finally, Beck's back, playing with The Black Keys, "I'm With the Band." Music for the full-tilt boogie. I'll return next week.

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