Monday, October 28, 2024

Three ingredients, 25 minutes, pure magic

Eric Kim's scallion-oil fish turns olive oil, alliums and white fish fillets into a simple, luscious dinner.
Cooking

October 28, 2024

A stainless steel skillet holds scallion-oil fish with pieces of bread on the side.
Eric Kim's scallion-oil fish. Linda Xiao for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Monica Pierini.

Three ingredients, 25 minutes, pure magic

Who isn't stirred by the ease and brevity of a three-ingredient recipe? Minimalist dishes are kitchen haikus — short, focused compositions that get right to the essence of their ingredients.

In Eric Kim's scallion-oil fish, he makes poetry with only fish fillets, alliums and olive oil. He fries scallions until the oil turns green and the scallions become golden and crisp, a preparation called pa gireum in Korean. Then, he turns off the burner and adds the fillets to poach gently in the oil's residual heat, so they turn from translucent to opaque and absorb that pungent flavor. It's a blessing for apartment dwellers because, as Eric writes in The Times, this gentle cooking method won't infuse your bedroom pillows — a win for fish fans who are not ready to sleep with the fishes.

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Scallion-Oil Fish

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Next, bringing us up to five ingredients (not counting salt and pepper, because that's punctuation), Joshua McFadden's kale sauce pasta, as adapted by Tejal Rao, is lean and elegant. First, you blanch some kale in salted water and transfer the softened greens to a blender along with sautéed garlic and good olive oil (using high-quality ingredients is essential in minimalist recipes). Then, while your greens are whirling into pesto, you cook your pasta in the same water you used for the kale. You'll end up with a vivid, emerald-hued sauce that's full of umami with a suave, silky texture.

That kind of efficiency and thrift makes this cook's heart sing. If you want to take it a step further, you can heed the advice that Andree Shore left in the notes and save the kale-pasta cooking water to make soup. Ali Slagle's chicken noodle soup is a perfect candidate; just replace some of the chicken stock she calls for with the starchy kale-pasta water, which will add body and green vegetable nutrients to the pot. Whatever you do, keep Ali's excellent recipe at the ready. With the first crop of autumnal colds looming, we need all the soup we can get.

For a meatless cure for what ails you, a big bowl of soft, buttery couscous topped with gingery spiced chickpeas and vegetables will do the trick. (Doesn't ginger fix everything?) Nargisse Benkabbou has a streamlined, vegetarian take on Friday couscous, a traditional meal to end the Muslim day of prayer in Morocco. Ideal for weeknights or any other busy evenings, her version is colorful, fragrant and festive enough to share with family or friends.

Plunging deeper into comfort foods, let's indulge in a cozy turkey meatloaf. Melissa Knific's new recipe adds a grated apple into the meat for sweetness and moisture, while the barbecue sauce baked on top creates a glossy, piquant glaze. Serve it with mashed potatoes (obviously) and maybe some three-ingredient steamed broccoli to round out this square meal.

For dessert, Andy Baraghani puts extra crunch into his apple-blueberry crisp by sprinkling panko bread crumbs and chopped pistachios into the crumbly, cardamom-scented topping. Serve this beauty warm from the oven with a scoop of vanilla ice cream on top, letting it melt into the filling to make a creamy, violet-tinged sauce. Pure poetry.

As always, you'll want to subscribe to get all of these recipes and so many more (in the tens of thousands range). If you need any technical help, the brilliant people at cookingcare@nytimes.com are there for you. And I'm at hellomelissa@nytimes.com if you want to say hi.

That's all for now. See you on Wednesday.

IN THIS NEWSLETTER

Article Image

Gentl and Hyers for The New York Times. Food stylist: Maggie Ruggiero. Prop stylist: Gozde Eker.

Kale Sauce Pasta

Recipe from Joshua McFadden

Adapted by Tejal Rao

20 minutes

Makes 2 servings as a main course or 4 as a side

A Dutch oven full of chicken noodle soup with a ladle stuck in for serving.

Christopher Testani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.

Chicken Noodle Soup

By Ali Slagle

40 minutes

Makes 4 to 6 servings

Article Image

Rachel Vanni for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Spencer Richards.

Friday Couscous

By Nargisse Benkabbou

1 1/2 hours 

Makes 6 to 8 servings

Article Image

Christopher Testani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.

Easy Turkey Meatloaf

By Melissa Knific

1 hour 30 minutes

Makes 4 to 6 servings

Article Image

Armando Rafael for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Mariana Velasquez. Prop Stylist:Paige Hicks.

Fluffy Mashed Potatoes

By Genevieve Ko

40 minutes

Makes 6 to 8 servings

Article Image

Christopher Testani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Rebecca Jurkevich.

Lemony Steamed Broccoli

By Millie Peartree

15 minutes

Makes 4 servings 

Article Image

David Malosh for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.

Apple-Blueberry Crisp With Panko-Pistachio Topping 

By Andy Baraghani

1 1/2 hours 

Makes 8 servings

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