Monday, May 13, 2024

Maximalist asparagus with lots of crunchy things

Pan-seared and piled with coconut flakes, nuts and seeds for texture and lime juice for zing.
Cooking

May 13, 2024

A shallow white bowl holds white rice topped with pan-seared asparagus with cashews, a runny-yolked egg and a lime wedge.
Christopher Testani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.

Maximalist asparagus

I start every asparagus season as a minimalist. For me, those first verdant stalks are best savored au naturel — simply roasted or steamed, with nothing but a drizzle of melted butter or olive oil, a sprinkle of salt and a squeeze of lemon. It's just enough to amplify their grassy, herbal flavor.

But now that I'm several asparagus meals in, I'm eager to branch out. My recipe for pan-seared asparagus with cashews is just the thing when you're ready for a pan full of punchy, crunchy additions. Filled with coconut flakes, nuts and seeds for texture and lime juice for zing, it's a great main dish served with rice and a fried egg, or a side to accompany a simple, mellow main.

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Pan-Seared Asparagus With Cashews

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I'm especially excited to pair my asparagus with Millie Peartree's delightful new chicken and noodles. Her recipe makes for a soupy, comforting one-pot meal that doesn't necessarily need anything on the side, though in my book there's always room for some nice green vegetables (written like a true mom).

For a quick one-pan meal that comes with the green vegetables built in, there's my pork chops with feta, snap peas and mint. Meaty, golden-seared pork chops are cooked under a mound of fresh mint and sweet sugar snap peas, and topped with briny feta. The lemon at the end provides the right pop of acidity to brighten everything up.

Staying speedy, but moving into pescatarian territory, we have David Tanis's soy-steamed fish with scallions and pistachios. He uses a classic Chinese method for steaming the dish on a plate, which you can do with or without a steamer (a large deep skillet also works). The pistachios may be unconventional, but they add loads of flavor and crunch. Or leave them out for a more delicately textured dish, with a gutsy, pungent flavor from the combination of fermented black bean paste, fresh ginger and scallions.

I love the look of Alexa Weibel's new recipe for spicy tomato beans and greens for something entirely meatless and pantry-friendly. To create a creamy red pesto base, she simmers canned cannellini with red chile flakes, tomato paste and sun-dried tomatoes, and then thickens it all with heavy cream. For a sprightly contrast just before serving, she adds a lemony arugula salad to the top that's enriched with crispy fried breadcrumbs. Oh, did I mention the pecorino and garlic? It's a five-star recipe that hits all the right notes.

For dessert, Samantha Seneviratne's rhubarb quick bread features asparagus's tangy springtime sister. Perfumed with orange zest and glazed with orange juice and confectioners' sugar, this treat strikes that delicate balance between sour and sweet. Save leftover slices to toast in a skillet and top with loads of salty butter.

As always, you'll want to subscribe to access all these smart recipes and so many more (you know, just tens of thousands more). If you need any technical help, the brilliant people at cookingcare@nytimes.com are there for you. And I'm at hellomelissa@nytimes.com if you want to say hi.

That's all for now, see you on Wednesday.

WHAT TO COOK

Article Image

David Malosh for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.

Chicken and Noodles

By Millie Peartree

30 minutes

Makes 6 hearty servings (12 cups)

Two bone-in pork chops are surrounded by snap peas, feta and mint in a cast-iron skillet. Two lemon halves, their juice having been squeezed over the chops, lie next to the skillet.

Johnny Miller for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Rebecca Jurkevich

One-Pan Pork Chops With Feta, Snap Peas and Mint

By Melissa Clark

25 minutes

Makes 3 to 4 servings

Article Image

Karsten Moran for The New York Times

Soy-Steamed Fish With Scallions and Pistachio

By David Tanis

30 minutes

Makes 2 servings

A cast-iron skillet holds creamy spicy tomato beans and greens. Toasted slices of bread are on a small dish nearby.

Kelly Marshall for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Samantha Seneviratne.

Creamy, Spicy Tomato Beans and Greens 

By Alexa Weibel

40 minutes

Makes 4 servings

Article Image

Todd Wagner for The New York Times

Rhubarb Quick Bread

By Samantha Seneviratne

1 1/2 hours

Makes 8 servings

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