Thursday, January 25, 2024

Versatile, comforting chicken mei fun

Who doesn't crave a generous tangle of noodles on a tired, cold night?
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Cooking

January 25, 2024

A white plate of chicken mei fun shows a tangle of vermicelli noodles with colorful vegetables.
Christopher Testani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.

Comfort cooking beyond casseroles

By The New York Times Cooking

We've been in comfort-cooking mode for a while now, and this last stretch of January really has us reaching for recipes that soothe and nourish. Soups and stews, yes, and generous casseroles, but also dishes that feel like effortless victories, filling the home with wonderful smells and making us do that satisfied, mmm-shrugging thing with our shoulders.

This chicken mei fun from Vivian Chan is a wonderful example of the comfort cooking we're craving. It's familiar (who doesn't love noodles?), versatile (use the proteins and veggies that you've got) and easy (simple prep and straightforward stir-frying). A tangled heap of noodles and crisp-tender vegetables, slicked in a savory five-spice sauce, is a very comforting thing on a tired, cold January night.

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Chicken Mei Fun

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Any conversation about comfort cooking has to include roast chicken. Colu Henry's roast chicken with maple butter and rosemary is a little sweet, a little salty, very savory and tremendously comforting. Just as classic is Lidey Heuck's new recipe for bangers and mash, that British pub standby combining sausage links, buttery mashed potatoes and onion gravy. Serve either with a frilly, lightly dressed green salad.

On the vegetarian side of things, Yewande Komolafe's brothy Thai curry with silken tofu and herbs is here to restore and revive. And how cozy do these roasted red peppers look? The bright peppers, charred and layered over a bed of garlicky beans and dark leafy greens, resemble soft, welcoming beanbag chairs. Ali Slagle's recipe really lets you slouch into it, too. Use whichever canned beans you've got in the pantry, add those herbs that need using up, top with crumbles of cheese or dollops of yogurt.

Sometimes you want a crisp-edged chocolate chip cookie; sometimes you want a dense, fudgy brownie. Samantha Seneviratne's brookies let you have both. What's more comforting than not having to choose?

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A whole burnished chicken in a cast-iron skillet is photographed from overhead.

Con Poulos for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.

Roast Chicken With Maple Butter and Rosemary

By Colu Henry

1 hour

Makes 4 servings

A dark bowl filled with an orange broth sits against a gray background. Pieces of silken tofu, tomatoes and herbs peek through the broth. To the bottom left is a small plate with lime wedges, and to the right is a spoon.

Kelly Marshall for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Roscoe Betsill. Prop Stylist: Maeve Sheridan.

Brothy Thai Curry With Silken Tofu and Herbs

By Yewande Komolafe

30 minutes

Makes 6 servings

Article Image

Christopher Testani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.

Bangers and Mash

By Lidey Heuck

45 minutes

Makes 4 servings

A cast-iron skillet holds charred roasted whole red peppers on a bed of garlicky white beans with greens and herbs. Two plates and two forks sit nearby.

Linda Xiao for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Hadas Smirnoff.

Roasted Red Peppers With Beans and Greens

By Ali Slagle

1 hour 10 minutes

Makes 4 servings

Article Image

Ryan Liebe for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Erika Joyce.

Brookies

By Samantha Seneviratne

45 minutes, plus cooling

Makes 24 bars

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Tanya Sichynsky shares the most delicious vegetarian recipes for weeknight cooking, packed lunches and dinner parties.

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Tanya Sichynsky shares the most delicious vegetarian recipes for weeknight cooking, packed lunches and dinner parties.

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