Sunday, January 28, 2024

Plush, perfumed pepperpot

This beloved Guyanese stew, spicy, slightly sweet and sticky, is just the thing for a winter weekend.
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Cooking

January 28, 2024

A Dutch oven holds richly spiced pepperpot with a plate of sliced bread nearby.
Linda Xiao for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Barrett Washburne.

Plush, perfumed pepperpot

Good morning. Time was, a goodly part of my correspondence was with readers annoyed with me or with The New York Times for publishing recipes calling for ingredients unavailable to them, either for reasons of geography or because they didn't wish to stray beyond the aisles of their local supermarket.

Online shopping and better supermarkets changed all that. You can have oyster sauce shipped to your small town or your corner of a large city, and find mullein-leaf tea, tubs of Vegemite and egusi seeds, too. I had a hankering for a St. Louis-style pizza. I didn't have to fly to Lambert Field. Two or three clicks on the laptop and the mail carrier soon brought me a few pounds of the Provel cheese necessary to make it.

Today's shopping: cassareep, a Guyanese syrup of boiled cassava root, savory-sweet, like a cross between molasses and Worcestershire sauce. It's a crucial ingredient in one of Guyana's most beloved dishes, pepperpot (above), which Millie Peartree brought to New York Times Cooking this week. Of course you can buy cassareep online, but if there's a Caribbean market where you are, it's most likely stocked there as well. Browned into beef chuck, it makes for a lovely stew: spicy, fragrant, slightly sweet and sticky. Millie serves it with sliced white bread. I think that's lovely.

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Pepperpot

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As for the rest of the week …

Monday

The other night I attempted a freestyle, no-recipe recipe for miso soup. It was an unmitigated disaster. Follow Eric Kim's excellent, actual recipe for miso soup instead. It's fantastic.

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Chris Simpson for The New York Times. Food stylist: Maggie Ruggiero. Prop stylist: Sophia Pappas.

Miso Soup

By Eric Kim

50 minutes

Makes 4 servings

Tuesday

What I like about Ali Slagle's recipe for chicken quesadillas is that she mixes shredded chicken with cheese in advance of assembling the tortillas, which yields a perfectly melted filling. And it comes together quickly, making it one of the great weeknight uses of a rotisserie (or leftover) chicken.

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Julia Gartland for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Samantha Seneviratne.

Chicken Quesadillas

By Ali Slagle

10 minutes

Makes 2 quesadillas

Wednesday

Lidey Heuck's recipe for a Waldorf salad sees its roots in the fancy-dan cuisine served at the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel in Manhattan in the 19th century, but in 2024 it's a perfect example of how you can make a beautiful dinner out of plain-Jane supermarket ingredients: a couple of apples, some table grapes, celery, mayonnaise, lemon and a handful of toasted walnuts.

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Christopher Testani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.

Waldorf Salad

By Lidey Heuck

25 minutes

Makes 4 servings

Thursday

There is no high-heat, fast-hands stir-frying in Genevieve Ko's recipe for an easy kung pao chicken. It's medium-heat, low-stress home cooking instead, a wonderful foil for greens steamed with garlic and a bowl of rice. I might add some peanuts to the mix, myself.

An oval platter filled with sauce chunks of chicken and chiles sits against a gray background. A serving spoon is sits on the right of the plate. A serving with rice sits to the bottom left.

Christopher Testani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews. Prop Stylist: Paige Hicks.

Easy Kung Pao Chicken

Recipe from Pearl Han and Grace Han

Adapted by Genevieve Ko

15 minutes

Makes 4 servings

Friday

And then you can head into the weekend with Kay Chun's recipe for seafood burgers with Old Bay mayonnaise. They're not complicated: shrimp, cod and scallions, with Delmarva-scented mayonnaise for fat and silkiness. Kay grills the patties, but they'll cook just as nicely in a well-oiled cast-iron pan. Serve on toasted buns with plenty of iceberg lettuce and, if you like, sliced pickles. So great.

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David Malosh for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.

Grilled Seafood Burgers With Old Bay Mayonnaise

By Kay Chun

25 minutes

Makes 4 servings

There are many thousands more recipes waiting for you on New York Times Cooking. You do need a subscription to read them. Subscriptions are what make this whole enterprise possible. So, please, if you haven't taken one out yet, would you consider doing so today? Thanks.

Reach out for help if you find yourself in a jam with our technology. We're manning the inbox at cookingcare@nytimes.com. Someone will get back to you. Or you can write to me. I'm hopeless with technology, but I'm a good listener: foodeditor@nytimes.com. I can't respond to every letter. But I read every one I receive.

Now, it's a far cry from galangal or smoked goose, but the South African soprano Golda Schultz is coming to the New York Philharmonic this week to sing Mozart. Here she is doing just that in London a few years ago. Let's go!

See what you think of Paul Keegan, in the London Review of Books, on the Philip Guston show at the Tate Modern.

A lovely piece of work: My colleagues Priya Krishna, Tanya Sichynsky and Umi Syam on the state of the restaurant menu right now. It's a fun piece to explore.

Finally, it's Rakim's birthday. He's 56. "Don't Sweat the Technique"! I'll be back on Friday.

Fresh, delicious dinner ideas for busy people, from Emily Weinstein and NYT Cooking.

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Tanya Sichynsky shares the most delicious vegetarian recipes for weeknight cooking, packed lunches and dinner parties.

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Tanya Sichynsky shares the most delicious vegetarian recipes for weeknight cooking, packed lunches and dinner parties.

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