A perfect seasonal dinner for quiet comfort
Good morning. I'm done with feasting for a while. I've had my holiday turkeys and hams and meat pies and trifles, my stacks of New Year's oysters, my showstopper project recipes, that cake you need to start a month in advance. I want intimate dinner party food, simple and delicious and elegant, something to enjoy with a few friends, not all of them. Enter David Tanis. He has three terrific new recipes for just that sort of meal this weekend. Start with a light and seasonal citrus salad with radish and watercress — five ingredients and no cooking required! Follow it with a taste of British comfort food: cauliflower cheese (above), bubbly hot with a Cheddar-fueled white sauce. And then, for dessert, try this dead-simple pistachio-chocolate bark to nibble on at the table with a glass of dessert wine or a rare nighttime coffee, as everyone talks about the movies or the weather. It's going to be a very interesting year. Featured Recipe Cauliflower CheeseThat said, I can't help myself. Lisa Donovan's new recipe for a pimento cheese pie calls out to me as well, combining her super-buttery pie dough with the chef Ashley Christensen's recipe for pimento cheese to achieve a kind of snacking perfection that'll pair well with Sunday's wild-card N.F.L. games. As for Naz Deravian's recipe for old-school egg rolls? Those would work just as well. If I don't go slab pie, I'd like to make those and eat them with mustard and a cold, cold beer, just as I used to do when an egg roll cost about the same as a slice of pizza and two of them made a fine accompaniment to sports on TV. And I won't sacrifice breakfast either: buttermilk pancakes, perhaps, or yeasted waffles, with oven bacon and velvety scrambled eggs. (After that, I can pass on lunch.) There are thousands and thousands more recipes waiting for you on New York Times Cooking. It's true that you need a subscription to read them. Subscriptions support our work and allow it to continue. If you haven't done so already, I hope you will consider subscribing today. Thank you. We are standing by should you find yourself at odds with our technology. Just write for help: cookingcare@nytimes.com. Someone will get back to you. Or you can write to me if you'd like to give us an apple or a worm: foodeditor@nytimes.com. I can't respond to every letter. But I read every one I get. Now, it's quite a distance from anything to do with fileting fish or making forcemeat, but I've been enjoying the Korean drama "Bloodhounds," on Netflix, about two boxers teaming up with a bighearted moneylender to fight a ruthless band of loan sharks. (It's complicated.) Michael Connelly's latest novel in the "Lincoln Lawyer" series is "Resurrection Walk." Not bad! Worth reading: Hanif Abdurraqib on Sleater-Kinney's new album, "Little Rope," in The New Yorker. And finally, here's "Untidy Creature," off that very album. Listen to that nice and loud. I'll see you on Sunday.
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Friday, January 12, 2024
Cauliflower cheese is bubbly-hot vegetarian comfort
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