Try cheesy French toast with kimchi from Hetty McKinnon.
| Christopher Simpson for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews. |
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What to Cook This Weekend |
Good morning. An Italian hero (above) is one of the great American sandwiches, whether you call it a sub or a hoagie, a grinder or a wedge. Most people buy Italian heroes at their local hero shop — their Lioni, their Defonte's, their Leo's Latticini — because local hero shops are often better at making heroes than civilians like you and me. |
Often, but not always. A couple of years ago, Gabrielle Hamilton wrote an article for The Times Magazine about making six-foot heroes at home, offering not so much a recipe as a philosophy, accompanied by advice that I took to heart. "Build first, season last," she wrote. "Hinge the bread like a book that lies open on its spine, rather than cutting all the way through. Have your ingredients ready, and put your condiments — mayo, oil and vinegar — into squeeze bottles as they do at delis. That way, you don't smear and upset the beautiful work you've just done neatly shingling out your fillings." |
I read that and knocked a sandwich out of the park and now make (somewhat shorter than six-foot) sandwiches all the time. They make for a great meal on days like this one, when there's plenty to watch and cheer for on the screens: say, tonight's Super Bowl between Kansas City and Philadelphia, or the Metropolitan Opera's free stream of "Fire Shut Up in My Bones," Terence Blanchard's adaptation of Charles M. Blow's memoir. I hope you'll join me with a hero either way. |
As for the rest of the week. … |
Ali Slagle's new recipe for citrusy lentil and sweet potato soup smartly uses chard in two ways: The leaves are a silky accompaniment to the beans and sweet potatoes, and the stems are quick-pickled to use as a topping with an acidic crunch. |
If you've discovered the joys of kimchi grilled cheese, you'll thrill to Hetty McKinnon's next-level iteration: cheesy French toast with kimchi. The bread gets soaked in egg and scallions before you add the cheese and kimchi. It all griddles into excellence. |
A vegan ode to the cumin lamb served at Xi'an Famous Foods in New York, Hetty's cumin tofu stir-fry could well become a weeknight go-to for anyone interested in big flavor, easily made. I make like one of our subscribers, who recommended adding roasted cashews at the end for heft and texture. |
And then I'll welcome the weekend with Ali Slagle's ace recipe for pastrami-spiced steak with charred cabbage, which she makes with strip steak, starting the meat out in a cold pan and cooking over medium heat. No smoky kitchen! |
Thousands and thousands more recipes to think about making this week are waiting for you at New York Times Cooking, at least if you have a subscription. (Subscriptions are important. They allow us to keep doing this work that we love.) If you haven't already, I hope you will subscribe today. Thanks so much. |
You can write for help if you run into trouble with the technology: cookingcare@nytimes.com. And you can write to me if you'd like to badger or praise: foodeditor@nytimes.com. I cannot respond to every letter. But I read every one I receive. |
Finally, to end almost where we started, here's David Bowie singing "Heroes" live in 1978. Enjoy that — as well as the ones you eat — and I'll see you next week. |
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