Sunday, September 11, 2022

What to Cook: Caramelized zucchini pasta, mushroom shawarma pitas and more recipes

And for tonight, there's Regina Schrambling's dijon and cognac stew.

What to Cook This Week

Good morning. It's that awful day again, filled with terrible memories that are 21 years old now. Take a moment to remember, to honor the lives lost and the futures dimmed. Cook something comforting and serve it to those you care about.

For tonight, there is of course Regina Schrambling's dijon and cognac stew, a recipe brought to The Times as a salve in the days after the attacks on the World Trade Center.

And for the coming days, there's Yotam Ottolenghi's latest for The New York Times Magazine, a recipe for spicy coconut greens with tomatoes and shrimp (above) that's loosely based on laing, a much-loved Filipino side dish of taro leaves cooked down with coconut milk. It comes from Yotam's kitchen colleague Elaine Goad, who grew up in Hong Kong, the Philippines and Britain, and swaps in chard for the taro leaves. Shrimp and tomatoes make it more of a meal.

"In our search for authenticity in food," Yotam writes, "we tend to overlook the fact that good dishes come about in all kinds of roundabout ways." Such is the case here: a laing that is not a laing, but phenomenally delicious all the same. Try that out tonight.

As for the rest of the week …

Monday

I love this caramelized zucchini pasta for how it follows the technique you'd use for caramelizing onions, frying the squash in olive oil and butter to concentrate its flavor. I like it with some anchovies, too, and a spray of red-pepper flakes. Nota bene: The sauce is not pretty. But boy howdy is it delicious.

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Tuesday

I'm seeing a lot of peach "seconds" at the farm stand, and they're powerfully good in this dish of skillet meatballs with peaches, basil and lime. Don't want to take the time to make the meatballs? Pro tip: Try it with Italian sausage coins instead.

Wednesday

Alexa Weibel came up with this lovely recipe for mushroom shawarma pitas, boldly flavored, easily made. Drizzle some turmeric-scented yogurt on at the end and dig in with a knife and fork.

Thursday

Weeknight cooking does not get much more simple than roasted salmon glazed with brown sugar and mustard, a dish that goes as nicely on a toasted baguette as it does alongside a thatch of watercress and a small pile of buttery roasted new potatoes.

Friday

And then you can run out the week with an impressive chopped salad with jalapeño ranch dressing, which is about as unsubtle a main-dish salad as you can imagine, big-flavored and American in the extreme. "Killer delicious," one subscriber noted below the recipe.

There are many thousands more recipes to cook this week awaiting you on New York Times Cooking — and additional inspiration on TikTok, Instagram and YouTube. Yes, it's true that you need a subscription to access our recipes. Subscriptions support our work and allow it to continue. If you haven't yet done so, would you please consider subscribing today? Thanks.

Write if that proves difficult or if you're having problems with our technology: cookingcare@nytimes.com. Someone will get back to you. And if not, or additionally, you can always write to me: foodeditor@nytimes.com. I read every letter sent.

Now, it's a far cry from juicing limes and shredding carrots, but I don't want you to miss Howard Fishman's accounting of a trip to Deer Isle to chase the ghost of John Steinbeck, which he wrote for The Washington Post Magazine.

If you like your fiction really, really dark, so hard-boiled the yolk's a gray rubber ball: James Ellroy's 1984 crime novel "Blood on the Moon" may suit.

Mistakes, errors, typos — all our friends. Here's Ed Simon in The Millions on literature's history of missteps and bloopers, fascinating to read.

Finally, do read J.J. Goode in The New Yorker on the pitfalls of a recipe-writing platitude: season to taste. Melissa Clark will join you in this space on Monday, and I'll be back at the end of the week.

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