Saturday, August 5, 2023

Good bread makes a meal

Tear off hunks of classic baguette to eat with Tunisian shakshuka and slow-cooker corn chowder.

Build your meal around bread

We know it might be borderline irresponsible to suggest cranking your oven to 500 degrees at the height of summer, but trust that we'd nudge you to do so only for baguettes. Specifically the tawny brown, shattery-crust, chewy-interior baguettes that Claire Saffitz shows us how to make in the newest episode of New York Times Cooking's "Try This at Home." Having taught us the art of homemade croissants, bagels and sourdough, Claire now takes us step-by-step through making our own baguettes, from selecting flour to reviving stale loaves. It's a worthy weekend project that yields deeply satisfying results: "A wonky baguette will still taste great," Claire says, "and I doubt anyone will care when they tear through the crackly crust."

Featured Recipe

To go with your baguette — or ciabatta or focaccia or stray sandwich slices — you'll need something saucy. Shakshuka loves a crusty loaf, and this Tunisian shakshuka with shrimp from Jamel Charouel is spicy, peppery and compulsively scoopable. Kay Chun's recipe for herb-marinated swordfish requires some bread to catch all those capery, lemony juices, as does Melissa Clark's recipe for sweet and spicy grilled vegetables with burrata in a tangy honey-vinegar sauce. Sarah DiGregorio's slow-cooker corn chowder, which uses both cobs and kernels, is also a strong bread buddy contender. (Note: Summer is a great time to turn on your slow cooker, not your stove.) And whether your baguette comes from your kitchen or the bakery, you'll want one for Melissa's peanut butter and chocolate ice cream sandwiches. Split hunks of baguette are slathered with peanut butter and chocolate spread, then stuffed with ice cream and banana slices — Parisian boulangerie meets American ice cream parlor.

Fresh, delicious dinner ideas for busy people, from Emily Weinstein and NYT Cooking.

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